Day 1 – 27.12.08 Saturday. (Mindelo Harbour)
All positions are recorded at noon boat time 1200utc & all log distances are water under the keel as recorded by the boat not necessarily distance covered in a straight line towards the destination during a 24hr period (1200 to 1200).
Left the anchorage at 1100utc and motored for 1 hour to put some charge in the batteries. Made the first two waypoints at 1130 and 1200 to reach the start of the open water crossing conveniently at noon.
The channel between the islands was very windy with sustained gusts to 25kn and a following swell. I sailed through the channel using only the genoa with minimal manual steering. Outside the channel into open waters there was some crazy wind shifts followed by almost complete calm. I could see Quatermoon approaching from behind as they had left a few hours after me. I ran the engine for another hour to clear the effects of land and hopefully find some wind. By this time I had the mainsail up, but Quatermoon was still gaining on me fast and using a poled out genoa and goosewinged. I thought about using the same sail configuration but decided against it due to the swell and rolling foredeck.
Saw large pale Whales or Porpoises following me for about half an hour I am sure they were much bigger than Dolphins.
Quartermoon overtook me just before dark and by this time the wind had shifted from dead astern to a beam reach. I sailed all night with 2 reefs in and ¾ genoa sleeping half hourly and hourly between 2300 and 0800.
Interestingly, the course I planned was 270 degrees due west, however, my ships GPS has plotted a ‘great circle’ route with a bearing to waypoint of 282 degrees in an effort to save me a few hundred miles. No doubt I’ll ruin its plans as I go off course wandering around the Atlantic ocean.
Day 2 – 28.12.08 Sunday. Log 113nm. N16 54.39 W27 06.07
I woke at 0800 and to my surprise saw that Quatermoon was still in sight all albeit a fleck of white on the distant horizon. Following a hot drink I set my sails Goosewinged as the swell had dropped down considerably. Spent the day chatting and playing catch up with Quatermoon which was good motivation to keep sailing well despite the poor winds of around 10kn dead astern. Through the afternoon I played some guitar and slowely closed the gap on Quatermoon with Doris being much lighter in the weak winds.
I made the mistake of being greedy and left full sail up into the darkness when the wind increased and I had to tame a runaway Doris. With appropriate sail now set it took hours to finally get the boat sailing steadily again with the wind shifting and dropping making the hydrovane self steering useless. To make matters worse it rained throughout the night making everything feel damp. I ran the engine and played music loudly while helming in the rain to charge the batteries and get back on the rhumb line after my runaway had taken me ~3nm off course.
By 0400 I still had not slept and was basically heading more North than West, completely pissed off and after trying every sail configuration I could dream up, I dropped all sail and climbed into bed to try and get some sleep until first light (0800). I managed about an hour’s sleep at most due to the swell and the fact that I can’t sleep when just bobbing about in the middle of the Ocean!
Day 3 – 29.12.08 Monday. Log 85nm. N16 57.86 W28 38.83
I awoke to find the barest hint of breeze (~4kn) and making about 1-2.5kn of boat speed most of which was current. With Quatermoon still in VHF radio range we shared our depression. Every now and again there would be a few minutes of sustained 10-15kn of wind followed by nothing.
We searched for the wind all day until 10kn appeared 30 minutes into me running the engine for an hour to charge the batteries. There is a distinct lack of sunshine for the solar panels with today being a depressing monochrome grey. I milked the wind for every second trying to make some ground and held on to full sail into darkness again ( I never learn). Quatermoon was 10nm in front of me and just audible over the radio. Slowly the wind changed direction and died. I managed to keep the boat sailing at 3-4kn close hauled which took me slowly North of my desired route. At least with the boat sailing herself steadily I managed to get a few hours of much needed sleep. I had one moment of horror midway through the night when I pulled the dial off my kitchen timer, all fixed – no harm done, phew!
Day 4 – 30.12.08 Tuesday. Log 76nm. N16 53.88 W30 01.05
Another black, cold and damp night. The morning bought much of the same conditions of around 6kn of wind but it changed in direction to bring me back to the rhumb line (10nm off course) without changing tack. I am still pinched up tight to the wind to create some false wind from my ‘speed’ to keep her moving in generally the right direction. This is supposed to be trade wind sailing 15-20kn of wind from the NE, not 5kn of breeze from the SW – am I in the right Ocean? I have tried to raise Quatermoon several times on the radio this morning without any luck so it looks like they are well ahead by now.
Update, after a few hours (1000), I finally got through and Quatermoon is about 8nm ahead of me, also struggling for wind.
So … how am I doing? Generlly good, not eating much as it takes a few days to build a hunger and settle into a routine, besides I think I might need to save the food!. At this speed it will be time to leave before I get there and I will have to fish for food and catch rain water! I also have a beard I need to lose and I probably smell weird! Still it’s only 1791nm to landfall.
C ya in a few days…
Tuesday, 30 December 2008
Saturday, 27 December 2008
Friday, 26 December 2008
Atlantic Thoughts
So how do I feel about Single Handing Doris 2000nm across the pond? Well, my biggest worry is being able to maintain a decent speed to complete the crossing before I die of old age. At 100nm per day (that’s what I usually work on for longer trips) this means 20 days, almost three weeks! Most people are talking about doing it in two weeks?!?! That’s an average speed of 6kn.
Also, it’s really hard to sleep well when the boat is going fast and if I don’t sleep there is a risk I will go all Crowhurst!
The ships log now reads 3560nm (although it does under read) since owning Doris from new, so the 2091nm to St. Lucia will be the same as almost 2/3 of the total sailing I have ever done in my life! However, in my favour, as long as I don’t get run down by shipping at least there is no land to hit! (Unless I’m really lost!).
Biggest worries:
Sail repair not holding and causing more damage to the sail.
Rig incorrectly tuned and the mast falling down.
Water pipe bursting (again) and losing most of my fresh water.
Storms (not squalls – I’m pretty used to them) and big seas.
Things generally breaking on the boat.
Lastly, there is the current weather situation. At the moment, the Atlantic pressure maps have gone mental with all kinds of weirdness. If we leave in the next few days we potentially face large (4-5m) southbound (on our beam) waves generated by a storm in the north, accompanied by light winds (5kn) and heavy rain.
I have downloaded a selection of guitar music and songs to learn along the way providing its not to swelly:
Mr Bojangles – Nitty Gritty Band
Sing – Travis
Under the Bridge & Californication – Chilli Peppers
I also have a few books to get through (thanks Crutey & Lindz):
Ice Bird – David Lewis, The Long Way & Cape Horn - The Logical Route both by my hero Bernard Moitessier
It’s now, 19:00pm and I have been looking at the weather sites and decided to leave tomorrow morning. The swell shouldn’t be too bad until about Tuesday
C ya on the other side…
Also, it’s really hard to sleep well when the boat is going fast and if I don’t sleep there is a risk I will go all Crowhurst!
The ships log now reads 3560nm (although it does under read) since owning Doris from new, so the 2091nm to St. Lucia will be the same as almost 2/3 of the total sailing I have ever done in my life! However, in my favour, as long as I don’t get run down by shipping at least there is no land to hit! (Unless I’m really lost!).
Biggest worries:
Sail repair not holding and causing more damage to the sail.
Rig incorrectly tuned and the mast falling down.
Water pipe bursting (again) and losing most of my fresh water.
Storms (not squalls – I’m pretty used to them) and big seas.
Things generally breaking on the boat.
Lastly, there is the current weather situation. At the moment, the Atlantic pressure maps have gone mental with all kinds of weirdness. If we leave in the next few days we potentially face large (4-5m) southbound (on our beam) waves generated by a storm in the north, accompanied by light winds (5kn) and heavy rain.
Surely a combination guaranteed to have us spewing our guts up!
On the other hand, this northern system is so big (winds to 50kn+) that it could take ages to pass through and we don’t want to sit here at anchor using precious food and water.
On the other hand, this northern system is so big (winds to 50kn+) that it could take ages to pass through and we don’t want to sit here at anchor using precious food and water.
I have downloaded a selection of guitar music and songs to learn along the way providing its not to swelly:
Mr Bojangles – Nitty Gritty Band
Sing – Travis
Under the Bridge & Californication – Chilli Peppers
I also have a few books to get through (thanks Crutey & Lindz):
Ice Bird – David Lewis, The Long Way & Cape Horn - The Logical Route both by my hero Bernard Moitessier
It’s now, 19:00pm and I have been looking at the weather sites and decided to leave tomorrow morning. The swell shouldn’t be too bad until about Tuesday
C ya on the other side…
Thursday, 25 December 2008
Cape Verdes 6 - Christmas Day
I woke up to the sound of the Sat phone as someone was trying to call. Unfortunately, it wouldn’t connect and I have no idea of who this was?
Anyway, after a wash, cup of coffee and the obligatory dose of Internet it was up on deck to have a go at the rigging. I have done a little reading on this and I know that a fractional rig with multiple swept back spreaders are a pain in the ass to tune and get right. In the end I put two turns on the cap shrouds and one turn on the lowers, leaving the intermediates alone. Does this sound about right for a rig that’s never been tightened from new? It feels a lot better, but all I can do is hope that the mast continues to stay upright I guess.
If (when) I ever buy another boat it will be a cutter rig with (preferably) a single set of straight spreaders, my rig is probably the worst possible configuration for cruising, especially down wind sailing due to the swept back spreaders.
As I was tightening the rigging, I noticed the mainsail head repair done way back in Muros, Spain had worn through and was close to breaking. Time to get out the sail makers palm and thread and make a new repair that will hopefully hold until across the Atlantic. Lucky I noticed this or I would have been sitting on the boom out at sea trying to sow a repair!
While I was busy working Sym & Amy (anchored a few yards to my right) were enjoying a Champagne breakfast followed by a Christmas dip in the fine waters of Mindelo Port.
With jobs now complete, I went below decks to call my parents on the Sat phone for a quick Merry Xmas before plotting my route across the pond.
Anyway, after a wash, cup of coffee and the obligatory dose of Internet it was up on deck to have a go at the rigging. I have done a little reading on this and I know that a fractional rig with multiple swept back spreaders are a pain in the ass to tune and get right. In the end I put two turns on the cap shrouds and one turn on the lowers, leaving the intermediates alone. Does this sound about right for a rig that’s never been tightened from new? It feels a lot better, but all I can do is hope that the mast continues to stay upright I guess.
If (when) I ever buy another boat it will be a cutter rig with (preferably) a single set of straight spreaders, my rig is probably the worst possible configuration for cruising, especially down wind sailing due to the swept back spreaders.
As I was tightening the rigging, I noticed the mainsail head repair done way back in Muros, Spain had worn through and was close to breaking. Time to get out the sail makers palm and thread and make a new repair that will hopefully hold until across the Atlantic. Lucky I noticed this or I would have been sitting on the boom out at sea trying to sow a repair!
While I was busy working Sym & Amy (anchored a few yards to my right) were enjoying a Champagne breakfast followed by a Christmas dip in the fine waters of Mindelo Port.
With jobs now complete, I went below decks to call my parents on the Sat phone for a quick Merry Xmas before plotting my route across the pond.
I have decided to make landfall in St. Lucia and go to Rodney Bay, the same place as the ARC finishes. This decision is due to both the fees and complications involved with checking into Barbados, not to mention the lack of anchorages.
Then it was over to Quartermoon for Christmas dinner.
Then it was over to Quartermoon for Christmas dinner.
What can I say, Amy & Sym live like royalty when it comes to cuisine! Stuffed roast chickens, with bacon, piggies in blankets, potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbage, with gravy washed down with wine and Champagne followed by home cooked lemon cheesecake.
Over dinner, we decided that it was not wise to leave on Boxing Day due to it being a Friday and therefore bad luck (Daniel of Luna, you are to blame for this maritime superstition!). So some time after Saturday it is…
After dinner, barely able to breath, I helped Amy with her blog and showed Sym some guitar stuff before we let off some celebratory ‘fireworks’ (ahem – nuff said!).
After dinner, barely able to breath, I helped Amy with her blog and showed Sym some guitar stuff before we let off some celebratory ‘fireworks’ (ahem – nuff said!).
Thanks for the hospitality guys, and making the day Christmas - you two are the best!
My Xmas pressie from Quartermoon, they know me so well!
Wednesday, 24 December 2008
Cape Verdes 5 – Change of Plans
We (Quartermoon & I) have decided to wait a little longer before setting off across the pond. Mainly due to the fact we (I) have a lot of smaller jobs that need doing and Amy really wants to celebrate Christmas properly. In addition, the Atlantic pressure map looks a little freaky, with massive high pressure over the UK and N. Europe and no Azores high to speak of and the fact it’s constantly changing meaning we would be heading into potentially dodgy weather. Therefore, we will sit tight until Boxing Day at least, make sure we are properly ready and have a better idea of the weather. Also, I may decide to go to St. Lucia now due to the lack of anchorages in Barbados, I'll keep you posted.
My ‘ToDo’ list so far:
Clean & Pack away dinghy and stow below – Done.
Lift floor boards and sponge bilges dry – Done.
Last minute food shopping – Done (as best as I can).
Top up water – Done.
Remove Jib and bend on Genoa – Done.
Make the galley cupboards useable at sea – Done (Nice one Sym!)
‘Obtain’ Pilot guide to Caribbean – Done (the magic of photocopiers!)
My ‘ToDo’ list so far:
Clean & Pack away dinghy and stow below – Done.
Lift floor boards and sponge bilges dry – Done.
Last minute food shopping – Done (as best as I can).
Top up water – Done.
Remove Jib and bend on Genoa – Done.
Make the galley cupboards useable at sea – Done (Nice one Sym!)
‘Obtain’ Pilot guide to Caribbean – Done (the magic of photocopiers!)
Extra Gaz - Done (Gaz is really cheap here).
Tighten Rigging – Christmas morning (I ran out of daylight today).
Many thanks to Sym, who is a master with a set of hand tools, the galley now will not spill bowls, plates, cups and glasses all over the floor when the boat is at sea. This will make such a difference to my quality of living while sailing and something Hanse should have thought of in the first place.
If any other cruisers (reading this) need work done at sensible rates, do not hesitate to give Sym (Quartermoon) a call if you find yourself in the same area. Sym has practically rebuilt Quartermoon (an Oyster 41) so evidence of his expertise in boat building is easily available.
Quatermoon now has their very own blog site and their progress and adventures can be followed, URL’s in the list to the right.
So … The Cape Verdes?
Well, it’s an interesting place! It seems that the people are either very wealthy (expensive cars etc) or extremely poor (street beggars and sharks). Everything is really expensive, for example a tube of toothpaste cost me about 3 quid and chocolate (Mars, Twix, etc) are kept behind glass to prevent theft they are so expensive!
The beggars ask you to buy them milk powder for their babies (that you never see) for some reason. We think it’s either to cut coke (or something) or to resell it back to the supermarkets. Or, they really do use it? Either way, its weird! I'm sure there's a scam going on somewhere.
I have purchased some extras that will ‘keep me going’ but I don’t have as many goodies as I’d like for such a long trip, especially as my diet is based around chocolate!
Anyway, enough for now, its Christmas eve so Merry Christmas to everyone I know friends, family and cruisers alike. Think of me tomorrow morning when you are unwrapping your pressies, I'll be on deck tightening my rigging!
Tighten Rigging – Christmas morning (I ran out of daylight today).
Many thanks to Sym, who is a master with a set of hand tools, the galley now will not spill bowls, plates, cups and glasses all over the floor when the boat is at sea. This will make such a difference to my quality of living while sailing and something Hanse should have thought of in the first place.
If any other cruisers (reading this) need work done at sensible rates, do not hesitate to give Sym (Quartermoon) a call if you find yourself in the same area. Sym has practically rebuilt Quartermoon (an Oyster 41) so evidence of his expertise in boat building is easily available.
Quatermoon now has their very own blog site and their progress and adventures can be followed, URL’s in the list to the right.
So … The Cape Verdes?
Well, it’s an interesting place! It seems that the people are either very wealthy (expensive cars etc) or extremely poor (street beggars and sharks). Everything is really expensive, for example a tube of toothpaste cost me about 3 quid and chocolate (Mars, Twix, etc) are kept behind glass to prevent theft they are so expensive!
The beggars ask you to buy them milk powder for their babies (that you never see) for some reason. We think it’s either to cut coke (or something) or to resell it back to the supermarkets. Or, they really do use it? Either way, its weird! I'm sure there's a scam going on somewhere.
I have purchased some extras that will ‘keep me going’ but I don’t have as many goodies as I’d like for such a long trip, especially as my diet is based around chocolate!
Anyway, enough for now, its Christmas eve so Merry Christmas to everyone I know friends, family and cruisers alike. Think of me tomorrow morning when you are unwrapping your pressies, I'll be on deck tightening my rigging!
Have a good one!
Boo & Doris.
Tuesday, 23 December 2008
Cape Verdes 4 – Doris Bids Fond Farewells To Lindsey
We woke up quite early and went ashore with Sym & Amy to officially check into the Cape Verdes. First visit the police station to announce our arrival and surrender the ships papers (I hate doing this!).
Lindsey was hoping to be home for Christmas so the mission was to find some method of transport to the international airport on the island of Sal. After much asking around we finally found the TACV office that deals with inter island flights and successfully booked her flight for the following day (Tues 23rd).
Knowing that Lindsey was going home we (Amy, Sym and myself) decided we would celebrate Christmas on the Wed 24th and set sail for the Caribbean Christmas morning! This also meant that our next trip to immigration we could get our passports stamped for entry and exit of the Cape Verdes in one hit, perfect.
I know I should really spend some time exploring and sight seeing in the Cape Verdes, but to be honest, the weather here is currently howling winds and pouring rain, a miracle as someone said it normally rains about 9 days a year?!?!?! Being single handed again, I am keen to get back out to sea and achieve my main goal of crossing the Atlantic.
After the immigration office, we all went back to the police station, showed our exit stamps and managed to retrieve our ships papers meaning we can all leave at any time.
Already having a flight booked in the Canaries from Sal to Munich, the only remaining task was to book a flight from Munich to the UK in time for Christmas, which she managed later that evening, albeit with a 15 hour layover in Munich - ouch!. Lindsey spent the evening packing her stuff and booking her final flight before we risked life and limb in the dinghy ride to Quartermoon in about 30kn gusts, for a farewell meal cooked by Sym.
Its now just after 10am local time and Lindsey is on her way home. After waking up at 5am, I took her ashore to meet the taxi she had ordered at 6am in Quatermoon’s dinghy we borrowed due to the howling winds. Her itinery, Mindello -> Sal -> Munich -> UK for about 1am Christmas day.
I now have 2 days to get the boat ready for the ‘big one’…
Lindsey was hoping to be home for Christmas so the mission was to find some method of transport to the international airport on the island of Sal. After much asking around we finally found the TACV office that deals with inter island flights and successfully booked her flight for the following day (Tues 23rd).
Knowing that Lindsey was going home we (Amy, Sym and myself) decided we would celebrate Christmas on the Wed 24th and set sail for the Caribbean Christmas morning! This also meant that our next trip to immigration we could get our passports stamped for entry and exit of the Cape Verdes in one hit, perfect.
I know I should really spend some time exploring and sight seeing in the Cape Verdes, but to be honest, the weather here is currently howling winds and pouring rain, a miracle as someone said it normally rains about 9 days a year?!?!?! Being single handed again, I am keen to get back out to sea and achieve my main goal of crossing the Atlantic.
After the immigration office, we all went back to the police station, showed our exit stamps and managed to retrieve our ships papers meaning we can all leave at any time.
Already having a flight booked in the Canaries from Sal to Munich, the only remaining task was to book a flight from Munich to the UK in time for Christmas, which she managed later that evening, albeit with a 15 hour layover in Munich - ouch!. Lindsey spent the evening packing her stuff and booking her final flight before we risked life and limb in the dinghy ride to Quartermoon in about 30kn gusts, for a farewell meal cooked by Sym.
Its now just after 10am local time and Lindsey is on her way home. After waking up at 5am, I took her ashore to meet the taxi she had ordered at 6am in Quatermoon’s dinghy we borrowed due to the howling winds. Her itinery, Mindello -> Sal -> Munich -> UK for about 1am Christmas day.
I now have 2 days to get the boat ready for the ‘big one’…
Farewell Lindz...
Cape Verdes 3
Firstly, sorry for the slow update everyone, as you can see I am still alive and well in the Cape Verdes (at last). As Kat pointed out later, it was probably not the best idea to announce that I had ‘bad vibes’ about the trip from the beginning and then go silent a third of the way across, so appologies to all who were worried about us.
After the initial posting, progress was both slow and actually off course, towards the Carribean for 2-3 days due to a really uncomfortable swell running on our beam and the wind being directly behind us. Being the lazy cruiser I am, we simply flew minimal sail and run with the swell until it died down before getting back on course again.
The weather throughout the trip was generally a major let down considering how far south we are and just off the coast of Africa, patchy sun, windy and quite cold during the day and squally, rainy and damp each night. The last day or so, while we had lovely flat seas and hot sunshine, we had very little wind to actually sail. I imagined the trip would take around 7 days (100 nm per day), Lindsey was hoping for 6 days but we ended up taking 8 days.
We were greeted by Quartermoon, Sym & Amy who guided us into the anchorage as I only had a pilot book and no chart available. Sadly, Aliisa had left for the Carribean the day before we arrived. Good luck for the crossing guys! Stay in touch and let us know when you are safely across.
Sym & Amy told us they were close to contacting the UK Falmouth Coast Guard to see if we had let off our EPIRB or if they had heard any news about us, as they (along with others) were getting very worried about us. A new lesson I have learnt (read the manual) is that I can’t keep more than 30 SMS messages on the sat phone as it prevents new ones from being delivered. With lots of previous trip messages and a whole stream of jokes being received and kept while en-route, I didn’t receive the anxious ones – doh!
Note to self: Always read and delete SMS messages immediately and leave the Sat phone turned on all the time when crossing the Atlantic!
On the subject of SMS messages, many thanks to you guys who sent them, at one stage I had the only Sat phone joke line in the Atlantic ocean, it was great to hear from you all again, Dave, Nick, Francois, Crutey, Prav, Kat, etc
After the initial posting, progress was both slow and actually off course, towards the Carribean for 2-3 days due to a really uncomfortable swell running on our beam and the wind being directly behind us. Being the lazy cruiser I am, we simply flew minimal sail and run with the swell until it died down before getting back on course again.
The weather throughout the trip was generally a major let down considering how far south we are and just off the coast of Africa, patchy sun, windy and quite cold during the day and squally, rainy and damp each night. The last day or so, while we had lovely flat seas and hot sunshine, we had very little wind to actually sail. I imagined the trip would take around 7 days (100 nm per day), Lindsey was hoping for 6 days but we ended up taking 8 days.
We were greeted by Quartermoon, Sym & Amy who guided us into the anchorage as I only had a pilot book and no chart available. Sadly, Aliisa had left for the Carribean the day before we arrived. Good luck for the crossing guys! Stay in touch and let us know when you are safely across.
Sym & Amy told us they were close to contacting the UK Falmouth Coast Guard to see if we had let off our EPIRB or if they had heard any news about us, as they (along with others) were getting very worried about us. A new lesson I have learnt (read the manual) is that I can’t keep more than 30 SMS messages on the sat phone as it prevents new ones from being delivered. With lots of previous trip messages and a whole stream of jokes being received and kept while en-route, I didn’t receive the anxious ones – doh!
Note to self: Always read and delete SMS messages immediately and leave the Sat phone turned on all the time when crossing the Atlantic!
On the subject of SMS messages, many thanks to you guys who sent them, at one stage I had the only Sat phone joke line in the Atlantic ocean, it was great to hear from you all again, Dave, Nick, Francois, Crutey, Prav, Kat, etc
Anyway, enough for this post, I will post again soon with whats new and cool in the Cape Verdes.
Boo & Doris.
Monday, 22 December 2008
Cape Verdes 2
For those who were concerned, I have just heard from Boo who has arrived alive and well in Cape Verdes. His travel sim doesn't work there so I wouldn't try and phone him.
He is sure to post more when he gets an internet connection.
Phew!
He is sure to post more when he gets an internet connection.
Phew!
Tuesday, 16 December 2008
Cape Verdes 1
13.12.08-1700.
Valle Gran Rey anchorage. We lifted the hook at 5pm and left under engine with the local wind howling directly on the nose.
13.12.08-1800.
I spent 30 mins removing and cleaning the ships log, as we had no boat speed or distance data. Just after completing the log Lindsey noticed water in the heads floor – another burst pipe! Another 30 mins later saw the pipe fixed with me dripping with sweat and on the edge of being sea sick in the swelly seas. Bad vibes about this trip… Hanse , if you read this change your supplier of spiral reinforced water hose, they are not safe or suitable!
13.12.08-2100.
The forcast winds of 25kn turned into a gale warning with winds to 40kn and building seas 3-4m. We flew a scrap of jib and run with the winds not quite making the rhumb line. Luckily we had some remaining Chilli Con Carne still in the pressure cooker for dinner.
14.12.08-0000. N27 40.800 W17 26.100
Winds dropped to 25kn NE and I gybed to avoid a liner coming out of El Hierro. Almost clear of the Canaries Islands.
15.12.08-0000 N26 14.990 W18 25.330
We ate fresh Dorada filleted and cooked by Lindsey with onion and garlic potatoes. Our first fish, caught around 6pm on a towed lure Lindsey had named Bertie. Unfortunately, Bertie gave himself so that we may eat well. RIP Bertie. Current lures in the collection are: Bertie (RIP), Barny, Ernie, Fanny and Freddie. I took the liberty of ‘pimpin my lure - Fredie’ which is now about 6 inches long with a spinner body and squiddy skirt!
16.12.08-0000 N25 12.300 W19 25.720
The last 24 hours has been a battle to stay close to the rhumb line and keep the boat comfortable in the never ending (often confused) 3-5m swell. Winds have varied from 7kn to 30kn. Sail combinations are basically Jib only at night and prevented main (1-3 reefs) during daylight. Progress is slower than we hoped for mainly due to the poor sea state. Weather at night is cold and damp with rain squalls and sunny but not very hot during the day, not the kind of sail I had in mind when setting off.
About 500nm to go…
Feel free to keep us company by sending SMS messages to 881631667012 via the Iridium website at: http://messaging.iridium.com/
Valle Gran Rey anchorage. We lifted the hook at 5pm and left under engine with the local wind howling directly on the nose.
13.12.08-1800.
I spent 30 mins removing and cleaning the ships log, as we had no boat speed or distance data. Just after completing the log Lindsey noticed water in the heads floor – another burst pipe! Another 30 mins later saw the pipe fixed with me dripping with sweat and on the edge of being sea sick in the swelly seas. Bad vibes about this trip… Hanse , if you read this change your supplier of spiral reinforced water hose, they are not safe or suitable!
13.12.08-2100.
The forcast winds of 25kn turned into a gale warning with winds to 40kn and building seas 3-4m. We flew a scrap of jib and run with the winds not quite making the rhumb line. Luckily we had some remaining Chilli Con Carne still in the pressure cooker for dinner.
14.12.08-0000. N27 40.800 W17 26.100
Winds dropped to 25kn NE and I gybed to avoid a liner coming out of El Hierro. Almost clear of the Canaries Islands.
15.12.08-0000 N26 14.990 W18 25.330
We ate fresh Dorada filleted and cooked by Lindsey with onion and garlic potatoes. Our first fish, caught around 6pm on a towed lure Lindsey had named Bertie. Unfortunately, Bertie gave himself so that we may eat well. RIP Bertie. Current lures in the collection are: Bertie (RIP), Barny, Ernie, Fanny and Freddie. I took the liberty of ‘pimpin my lure - Fredie’ which is now about 6 inches long with a spinner body and squiddy skirt!
16.12.08-0000 N25 12.300 W19 25.720
The last 24 hours has been a battle to stay close to the rhumb line and keep the boat comfortable in the never ending (often confused) 3-5m swell. Winds have varied from 7kn to 30kn. Sail combinations are basically Jib only at night and prevented main (1-3 reefs) during daylight. Progress is slower than we hoped for mainly due to the poor sea state. Weather at night is cold and damp with rain squalls and sunny but not very hot during the day, not the kind of sail I had in mind when setting off.
About 500nm to go…
Feel free to keep us company by sending SMS messages to 881631667012 via the Iridium website at: http://messaging.iridium.com/
Friday, 12 December 2008
Weds 3rd – Thurs 11th December Valle Gran Rey
After setting off before both Quatermoon and Aliisa from San Sebastian we arrived last in Valle Gran Rey after a brief stop in Santiago for lunch. While in Santiago we managed to contact the Gomera Diving Centre and arrange to see the instructor the next day. We all anchored in the amazing location just outside of Puerto Vueltas harbour almost alongside the dramatic vertical cliffs.
The first night saw a little ‘get together’ aboard Aliisa where Hannis (The German Hippy Dude) we met in Cascais joined us.
The next day (Thurs) Lindsey and I went to the dive centre and arranged to start immediately that afternoon. While I have completed some of the OpenWater (Confined Water and Theory) components of the course I have not done the last four OpenWater Dives. After finally being able to get back in clean water we spent the morning snorkelling and then we went ashore where Lindsey started her theory components and we spent the afternoon in the centre watching PADI DVDs.
Friday morning saw us entering the water after a 9:30am start from the shore just opposite the dive centre for Lindsey to start her Confined Water skills. I mainly watched from underwater and also joined in a few of the skills to ‘brush up’. While only from the shore in about 3-4m of water the dives were amazing with a second dive at 2:30pm. During this second dive we saw a huge Manta (Butterfly) Ray which literally exploded from the sand less than a few feet away. Lindsey had trouble equalising her ears even at moderate depths and it seems like a problem that she is going to have to conquer throughout the course. Being determined she battled on and completed the Confined Water dives successfully.
Dive 1: 4m for 47mins
Dive 2: 4m for 32 mins
That night saw us join the others aboard Quatermoon for the most amazing tasting food I have ever tasted cooked on a boat BBQ.
Saturday was a ‘Day Off’ as the Dive centre was closed. We had a lazy start to the day and finally went ashore to the stony beach opposite the anchorage where Lindsey managed to sit down in the water before getting the dinghy ashore.
After finally getting ashore we found the bank and cashpoint machine to draw out some money. We spent the evening in a bar with a beach front view getting more and more drunk. On the way back to the boat Lindsey was absolutely desperate to go to the toilet which led to a swift swerve up a private looking alley only to be ‘caught in the act’ by someone vacating the building. After finally getting back to the boat out came the Rum and we continued where we left off.
The anchorage was now quite lonely as Aliisa had left Saturday morning and Quatermoon had decided to leave that evening, both heading for the Cape Verdes.
We will be close behind you guys, so stay safe and C ya soon!
Sunday morning was the first of our Open Water Dives, however, we were forced to enter from the shore due to bad sea conditions. The dive was still good with us going a lot deeper but visibility was severely reduced to about 5m.
Dive 3: 7m for 49 mins
We cancelled the second dive of the day again due to conditions and Lindsey and I spent the day snorkelling off the back of Doris after sleeping most of the afternoon. This snorkel session was a milestone for Lindsey as she finally stopped doing ‘dying fly’ impressions on the surface and learnt to dive deeper going to around 4m and then only stopped by not being able to equalise her ears.
With the weather being a lot better Monday morning we set out on our first Boat Dive joined by four other Germans and a Spanish guy, to a place called Cala De La Negra. This dive was amazing but Lindsey had a lot of problems with her ears and I ended up ‘Buddying Up’ with a German guy while the instructor looked after Lindsey and slowly got her down to depth. The fish were generally bigger and the whole experience generally more dramatic.
Dive 4: 12m for 46 mins
The second dive of the day, while being from the boat was literally only the other side of the Vueltas harbour wall (Baja Del Secrets). Again a great dive but with reduced visibility and a lot of ‘surge’ from waves rebounding off the wall. We did see both Bonito and Barracudas.
Dive 5: 15m for 39 mins
Tuesday saw us heading for a place called Iguala for our final qualifying PADI OpenWater dive. Lindsey again had some problems and took around 15 mins to get down to depth due to her ears being slow to equalise. Once we were all down the whole experience was ‘other worldly’. We swam along a reef with steep vertical walls again witnessing the most amazing sights and with this being our deepest dive yet, the feeling of flying over an abyss was incredible. It was this dive that I finally felt I could control my buoyancy with a degree of confidence as could Lindsey.
Dive 6: 17m for 46 mins
Lindsey and I are now fully qualified PADI Open Water divers and able to hire gear and go diving alone – scary stuff! Christmas is coming and I have a new shopping list! Bring on the Carribean…
Cumulative Dive Time: 4 hours 19 mins.
Lance – I owe you a large drink for getting me started!
Wednesday saw Lindsey and I looking for a taxi to take us up (around 1000m – I think) to a town called Arure, where we were to descend along the hiking track back to Valle Gran Rey below.
The weather was far from ideal being windy and threatening to rain. The other walkers (coming the opposite way) must have wondered about us not exactly being appropriately dressed or prepared.
The views across the island and out to sea were breath taking but the final hour or so of descent really took their toll on otherwise unused leg muscles.
The first night saw a little ‘get together’ aboard Aliisa where Hannis (The German Hippy Dude) we met in Cascais joined us.
The next day (Thurs) Lindsey and I went to the dive centre and arranged to start immediately that afternoon. While I have completed some of the OpenWater (Confined Water and Theory) components of the course I have not done the last four OpenWater Dives. After finally being able to get back in clean water we spent the morning snorkelling and then we went ashore where Lindsey started her theory components and we spent the afternoon in the centre watching PADI DVDs.
Friday morning saw us entering the water after a 9:30am start from the shore just opposite the dive centre for Lindsey to start her Confined Water skills. I mainly watched from underwater and also joined in a few of the skills to ‘brush up’. While only from the shore in about 3-4m of water the dives were amazing with a second dive at 2:30pm. During this second dive we saw a huge Manta (Butterfly) Ray which literally exploded from the sand less than a few feet away. Lindsey had trouble equalising her ears even at moderate depths and it seems like a problem that she is going to have to conquer throughout the course. Being determined she battled on and completed the Confined Water dives successfully.
Dive 1: 4m for 47mins
Dive 2: 4m for 32 mins
That night saw us join the others aboard Quatermoon for the most amazing tasting food I have ever tasted cooked on a boat BBQ.
Saturday was a ‘Day Off’ as the Dive centre was closed. We had a lazy start to the day and finally went ashore to the stony beach opposite the anchorage where Lindsey managed to sit down in the water before getting the dinghy ashore.
After finally getting ashore we found the bank and cashpoint machine to draw out some money. We spent the evening in a bar with a beach front view getting more and more drunk. On the way back to the boat Lindsey was absolutely desperate to go to the toilet which led to a swift swerve up a private looking alley only to be ‘caught in the act’ by someone vacating the building. After finally getting back to the boat out came the Rum and we continued where we left off.
The anchorage was now quite lonely as Aliisa had left Saturday morning and Quatermoon had decided to leave that evening, both heading for the Cape Verdes.
We will be close behind you guys, so stay safe and C ya soon!
Sunday morning was the first of our Open Water Dives, however, we were forced to enter from the shore due to bad sea conditions. The dive was still good with us going a lot deeper but visibility was severely reduced to about 5m.
Dive 3: 7m for 49 mins
We cancelled the second dive of the day again due to conditions and Lindsey and I spent the day snorkelling off the back of Doris after sleeping most of the afternoon. This snorkel session was a milestone for Lindsey as she finally stopped doing ‘dying fly’ impressions on the surface and learnt to dive deeper going to around 4m and then only stopped by not being able to equalise her ears.
With the weather being a lot better Monday morning we set out on our first Boat Dive joined by four other Germans and a Spanish guy, to a place called Cala De La Negra. This dive was amazing but Lindsey had a lot of problems with her ears and I ended up ‘Buddying Up’ with a German guy while the instructor looked after Lindsey and slowly got her down to depth. The fish were generally bigger and the whole experience generally more dramatic.
Dive 4: 12m for 46 mins
The second dive of the day, while being from the boat was literally only the other side of the Vueltas harbour wall (Baja Del Secrets). Again a great dive but with reduced visibility and a lot of ‘surge’ from waves rebounding off the wall. We did see both Bonito and Barracudas.
Dive 5: 15m for 39 mins
Tuesday saw us heading for a place called Iguala for our final qualifying PADI OpenWater dive. Lindsey again had some problems and took around 15 mins to get down to depth due to her ears being slow to equalise. Once we were all down the whole experience was ‘other worldly’. We swam along a reef with steep vertical walls again witnessing the most amazing sights and with this being our deepest dive yet, the feeling of flying over an abyss was incredible. It was this dive that I finally felt I could control my buoyancy with a degree of confidence as could Lindsey.
Dive 6: 17m for 46 mins
Lindsey and I are now fully qualified PADI Open Water divers and able to hire gear and go diving alone – scary stuff! Christmas is coming and I have a new shopping list! Bring on the Carribean…
Cumulative Dive Time: 4 hours 19 mins.
Lance – I owe you a large drink for getting me started!
Wednesday saw Lindsey and I looking for a taxi to take us up (around 1000m – I think) to a town called Arure, where we were to descend along the hiking track back to Valle Gran Rey below.
The weather was far from ideal being windy and threatening to rain. The other walkers (coming the opposite way) must have wondered about us not exactly being appropriately dressed or prepared.
The views across the island and out to sea were breath taking but the final hour or so of descent really took their toll on otherwise unused leg muscles.
Once back at sea level in Valle Gran Rey we made sure Doris was all OK and headed to a bar for some drinks while waiting for our restaurant of choice (Tuyo) to open.
After several well earned Baileys and a few beers we sat down to dinner in complete solitude as we were the only people there. Lindsey finally got to have her fish dinner of Dorada Royal which put a huge smile on her face. After desert and a smooth row back to the boat we were soon making like ‘dead people’ being exhausted from the days hike.
Thursday 11th - We have decided to set sail for the Verdes (~800nm about 7 days at sea) tomorrow after getting everything sorted with the boat and depending on a good weather forcast.
We spent the afternoon rowing back and forth ashore getting fresh water onboard, replacing the used Gaz cylinder and buying more supplies. We also bought some new squiddy lures as recommended by Kat.
During the evening the wind really started blowing and it was not possible to get ashore by rowing the dinghy to check the Internet for email, weather etc so had an early night after Chilli Con Carne and a beer.
It’s now Friday morning (10:30am) and I am writing this. Marcus & Jess on Veracity arrived last night. Today will be spent getting the water cans filled in case anything happens to the main water tank and doing all the Internet based stuff. Hopefully, all being well, we will leave either tonight or tomorrow morning and I will update the blog via twitter.
The trip to Cape Verdes will be the longest leg of my trip yet, although not single handed this time… Stay Tuned!
Wednesday, 3 December 2008
Las Palmas To La Gomera
Despite the last blog entry we still managed to leave Las Palmas a day later than planned as Marcus finally arrived. We spent a really nice evening with Marcus, Jess, James and Freya of (aboard) Otahi (I think that’s the right spelling).
The next day we left Las Palmas and made a swelly passage to Pasito Blanco, arriving around 5pm to drop the anchor in about 1.8m of water under the keel (my shallowest anchorage yet), make some food and get a few hours sleep before re-setting off for Los Christianos on Tenerife.
Just before arriving at Pasito Blanco we spoke to Aliisa on the VHF who was also heading for La Gomera, mid conversation we experienced a 180 degree wind shift and gusts to 35kn! The winds around the Canaries are crazy.
After eating pasta and watching the crazy local water skier we slept until 2am and then left under motor towards Tenerife, 65nm away. After motoring all night (Lindsey slept while I helmed) the wind finally made an appearance around 8am where I could finally set up the boat to steer herself.
Sym & Amy of Quatermoon also decided to stay another day. We went into town and looked around in a more relaxed state than previously without having to look for bins to throw up into! After some lunch in a local restaurant we had showers (cold) and met up with Matti for some food on Doris before finding a bar in town.
We decided to get a pizza, which looked really nice when bought to the table. (Un)fortunately, Lindsey managed to find a small cockroach on the underside of the pizza we were sharing quashing any appetite instantly! We asked for the bill and was horrified to discover that Matti had been charged for his pizza despite him returning it due to feeling ill!
Its now 11am and after writing this will prepare to head for Valle Gran Rey (possibly via Santiago) where we will hopefully finally do our PADI Open Water courses.
Daniel of Luna, if you are already there and read this in time, wait for us before heading for the Cape Verdes.
The next day we left Las Palmas and made a swelly passage to Pasito Blanco, arriving around 5pm to drop the anchor in about 1.8m of water under the keel (my shallowest anchorage yet), make some food and get a few hours sleep before re-setting off for Los Christianos on Tenerife.
Just before arriving at Pasito Blanco we spoke to Aliisa on the VHF who was also heading for La Gomera, mid conversation we experienced a 180 degree wind shift and gusts to 35kn! The winds around the Canaries are crazy.
After eating pasta and watching the crazy local water skier we slept until 2am and then left under motor towards Tenerife, 65nm away. After motoring all night (Lindsey slept while I helmed) the wind finally made an appearance around 8am where I could finally set up the boat to steer herself.
We arrived at Los Christianos after being escorted by a pod of dolphins and discovered that the anchorage as described in the Imray pilot book has completely changed. Anchoring in about 8m of water under the keel I had to let out the warp again as 30m of chain just isn’t enough. More chain is at the top of the shopping list when I get to the Caribbean!
Rather than head off immediately, we decided it might be nice to actually see Los Christianos as Lindsey has never been to Tenerife before. I, on the other hand spent a few months here living on a nudist beach years ago and this is the place where I first discovered that people are sailing boats around the world and probably the birthplace of the crazy idea that now led me back with my own boat.
The next day was spent generally looking around the town with Lindsey buying perfume gifts for her family. We finally headed back to the boat in the afternoon and had a ‘wash’ / swim before heading back for an evening Chinese meal. The next day we left the anchorage with about 5knots of wind and ghosted our way towards La Gomera, with Lindsey sunbathing and me a slave to the wheel.
We saw several whales of which I presume were of the pilot variety. Mid way across we had to use the engine as the wind had died and the swell increased considerably. The last 5 or so miles saw the winds increase to 25kn as we entered the acceleration zone and with 2 reefs in the main and ¾ jib made good progress towards the San Sebastian marina.
Quatermoon and Aliisa were already moored up inside and luckily Sym managed to sweet talk the staff into letting us moor in the haul out pen as the marina was completely full with boats moored up four boats deep.
After a close encounter with a large cat moored in the entrance of the haul out pen we made fast and headed over to the join the BBQ on the pontoon quayside. Needless to say the wine flowed and out came the guitars, with several memorable songs being composed the best being ‘Donde Esta El Doris’ sung by Sym in his best Spanish! Another highlight was ‘We’re German – and I hope you like Germans too’ by a crew of randoms who happened to join in as they passed by. We finally had to abort when the other boats started to complain about the noise…
The next morning I felt like death, I managed to muster a cup of tea before getting back into bed. The second attempt to wake up was even worse. We managed to make it into town and ordering a cooked breakfast in the hope that this would kill or cure. Just the sight of the cold almost raw fried eggs and fatty bacon made my stomach do back flips. Lindsey managed considerably better than me as I sat there shaking, freezing cold with sweat running down my back with watering eyes assessing what bin to throw up into should the need arise.
After walking around a while I started to feel a little better and met up with the rest of the crew who had also been rough all morning. We got the boat sorted for a departure the following day, filling the water and fuel tanks (my first Diesel since Portugal) and went to the supermarket and got some supplies for another BBQ. That evening saw a more subdued version of the previous night, all very civilised with not a single guitar in sight.
Anina having recovered from alcohol poisoning...
Rather than head off immediately, we decided it might be nice to actually see Los Christianos as Lindsey has never been to Tenerife before. I, on the other hand spent a few months here living on a nudist beach years ago and this is the place where I first discovered that people are sailing boats around the world and probably the birthplace of the crazy idea that now led me back with my own boat.
The next day was spent generally looking around the town with Lindsey buying perfume gifts for her family. We finally headed back to the boat in the afternoon and had a ‘wash’ / swim before heading back for an evening Chinese meal. The next day we left the anchorage with about 5knots of wind and ghosted our way towards La Gomera, with Lindsey sunbathing and me a slave to the wheel.
We saw several whales of which I presume were of the pilot variety. Mid way across we had to use the engine as the wind had died and the swell increased considerably. The last 5 or so miles saw the winds increase to 25kn as we entered the acceleration zone and with 2 reefs in the main and ¾ jib made good progress towards the San Sebastian marina.
Quatermoon and Aliisa were already moored up inside and luckily Sym managed to sweet talk the staff into letting us moor in the haul out pen as the marina was completely full with boats moored up four boats deep.
After a close encounter with a large cat moored in the entrance of the haul out pen we made fast and headed over to the join the BBQ on the pontoon quayside. Needless to say the wine flowed and out came the guitars, with several memorable songs being composed the best being ‘Donde Esta El Doris’ sung by Sym in his best Spanish! Another highlight was ‘We’re German – and I hope you like Germans too’ by a crew of randoms who happened to join in as they passed by. We finally had to abort when the other boats started to complain about the noise…
The next morning I felt like death, I managed to muster a cup of tea before getting back into bed. The second attempt to wake up was even worse. We managed to make it into town and ordering a cooked breakfast in the hope that this would kill or cure. Just the sight of the cold almost raw fried eggs and fatty bacon made my stomach do back flips. Lindsey managed considerably better than me as I sat there shaking, freezing cold with sweat running down my back with watering eyes assessing what bin to throw up into should the need arise.
After walking around a while I started to feel a little better and met up with the rest of the crew who had also been rough all morning. We got the boat sorted for a departure the following day, filling the water and fuel tanks (my first Diesel since Portugal) and went to the supermarket and got some supplies for another BBQ. That evening saw a more subdued version of the previous night, all very civilised with not a single guitar in sight.
Anina having recovered from alcohol poisoning...
The next morning we checked out of the marina and just before leaving we bumped in Matti of Carma who had just arrived. After a quick chat I decided that I would like to stay another day, especially as we were only being charged 10eu per night in the haul out pen!
Sym & Amy of Quatermoon also decided to stay another day. We went into town and looked around in a more relaxed state than previously without having to look for bins to throw up into! After some lunch in a local restaurant we had showers (cold) and met up with Matti for some food on Doris before finding a bar in town.
We decided to get a pizza, which looked really nice when bought to the table. (Un)fortunately, Lindsey managed to find a small cockroach on the underside of the pizza we were sharing quashing any appetite instantly! We asked for the bill and was horrified to discover that Matti had been charged for his pizza despite him returning it due to feeling ill!
Its now 11am and after writing this will prepare to head for Valle Gran Rey (possibly via Santiago) where we will hopefully finally do our PADI Open Water courses.
Daniel of Luna, if you are already there and read this in time, wait for us before heading for the Cape Verdes.
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
HAPPY BIRTHDAY KAT
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 11:06 AM
Subject: Fw: Matchmaker Contact ARC yacht numer 34
Subject: Fw: Matchmaker Contact ARC yacht numer 34
Hi all
Most of you don't even know i've managed to secure a crew place on an ARC yacht earlier this weekBut we set off in the next hour!!!
Most of you don't even know i've managed to secure a crew place on an ARC yacht earlier this weekBut we set off in the next hour!!!
I really have landed on my feet on this one - its a 65ft oyster with every luxury you can imagine
(although the washing Machine can't be used at sea!!!)
Spent the last few days provisioning and the new crew are loving my OCD tendancies when getting all the menu ingredients labelled up so we know what to grab out of the freezer or which fridge (yes there's 2 plus cooler box in cockpit) for every meal over next 18 days.
As per usual i'm running round like headless chicken but wanted to let you know the details to track our progress - see website below
If i've forgotten anyone in my haste and while the marching bands are kicking up and boat dog horns blaring please pass this email on!
The email address onboard will be symatchmaker@mailasail.com and I can receive emails on that but please be aware the whole crew (incl boat owner peter) get to see content so don't send inappropriate content or large files etc!
I will send another mass email when we get to st lucia safely - roughly 18 days from nowWhen back on this email!
I will send another mass email when we get to st lucia safely - roughly 18 days from nowWhen back on this email!
Take care and lots of love
Katherine
Katherine
-----Original Message-----
From: "Peter Lloyd" <symatchmaker@mailasail.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 09:13:48 To: <kath@kathblackler.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 09:13:48 To: <kath@kathblackler.co.uk>
Subject: Fw: Matchmaker Contact ARC yacht numer 34
Hi All of Katherine`s Family & Friends,Between Sunday 23rdNov and 12thDec Me and my crew - Jen, Simon, Katherine, and Callum, will be sailing across the Atlantic Ocean in SY Matchmaker.
Hi All of Katherine`s Family & Friends,Between Sunday 23rdNov and 12thDec Me and my crew - Jen, Simon, Katherine, and Callum, will be sailing across the Atlantic Ocean in SY Matchmaker.
She has satelite communications on board so that we can keep in touch with familyand friends. You can communicate with the boat and all her crew if youwish on this e mail - but be aware we all see what is sent! (so cut outthe really personal stuff!)- please reply to test it out if you wish - andsave the details in your contact box.
Please DO NOT SEND any graphics orphotos or logos because these are very slow to transmit and are also veryexpensive as they take up a lot of band width - so make sure your e maildoes NOT contain a logo "Signature". We shall be checking mails every dayat 12noon (sometimes more often).
You can also reach the boat by Satelitephone if anything is particularily urgent. The number is +870764836998. Ifyou are interested in following our progress across the Atlantic you canopen our "Matchmaker" blog page which is,http://blog.mailasail.com/symatchmaker
We shall post an update most day but NOT everyday - and normally at around12 noon (local time) - n.b. we shall loose 4hours of time zone as wetravel west! Subject of course to the wind - we expect to arrive in StLucia around the 10th December.
Thanks Peter LloydS/Y Matchmaker
Thursday, 20 November 2008
Las Palmas Anchorage
Thursday 20th saw us wondering around the marina where we found Kat for a quick chat and generally mooched around watching the ARC circus. Later that evening Danielle arrived from Puerto Rico and we all (Daniel, Lauri, Annina, Kat and the three of us) sat aboard Doris for Honey Rum and Curry!
The next morning (Friday) we hired a car with Lauri & Annina and we went exploring around the island seeing the sights and trying to find an old car tire (sea anchor) and gas bottles filled for Aliisa.
We finally said farewell to Mr Crute around 5pm as we dropped him at the airport. Despite the horrific crossing he had to endure, I’m guessing this isn’t the last time Doris wecomes Mr Crute back aboard.
It was really good to see you again dude – we are already missing ya!
Back at the boat, we had some food and got an early night as Lindsey’s cold was starting to get the better of her.
Saturday morning saw us getting up late and we spent the afternoon with Kat who was on a mission to get a bikini and sunglasses for her crossing. It still feels strange knowing that we both started this little adventure together over a year ago and now she is crossing the Atlantic separately from me – irony!
Kat really has done well to land a position on one of the largest and most luxurious boats in the ARC a brand new 65ft Oyster! – It makes Doris look like a second hand dinghy!
Later that eve I picked Kat up from the beach again to watch the fireworks, which ended before I even got her back to the boat! We sat and talked for a while and before I knew it, it was gone 1am. It was an emotional farewell at the waters edge and we reflected on times gone by and the fact that she hadn’t really had time to get her head around what she was about to do. I have to say it was a weird feeling me rowing back to the boat and her walking off to the marina.
Sunday morning – ARC departure day. We woke and made our way ashore to watch the boats leave. (Un)Luckily, Kat had already left the marina and unbeknown to me had sailed right past Doris at anchor as she saw us rowing ashore, probably for the best as to actually see her depart may have got messy.
Lindsey and I spent the remainder of the afternoon rowing back and forth filling the water tank using cans from the taps on the beach. Lindsey has decided to stay with me aboard Doris at least until the Cape Verde islands.
Monday morning and the anchorage was now half empty compared to the pre ARC departure. We went ashore and washed every bit of dirty laundry we could find (my first washing since before Biscay!) and had showers in the marina facilities having ‘borrowed’ the key from some of Lindsey’s friends.
After returning to the boat we comprised a shopping list to get us to the Cape Verdes. Daniel of Luna came with us to the HyperDino supermarket where we managed to fill two trollies including more than a few fruit & vegetables, including cucumber of all things!!!
After paying we caught a taxi back to the beach which turned out to be a mini adventure due to the taxi driver first taking us in the wrong direction and then scratching his car due to impatience. The final straw came when Lindsey kept the change! Luckily, we were able to just get everything in the dinghy although I nearly lost Lindsey over the side resulting in wet jeans.
Back at the boat it looked like chaos with shopping everywhere. It seemed impossible to lose this much shopping inside the little storage space available. Not able to face it anymore and with Lindsey close to death due to her ever worsening cold, we ate pizza and went to bed.
Tuesday morning saw me get up and attack the shopping, managing to get everything stowed with room to spare. We have finally decided on a plan of action. As follows:
We will leave Las Palmas tomorrow morning (Weds 26th) and sail to the south of the island, drop anchor for some food and sleep before departing for Los Christianos on South Tenerife and then finally a day trip to Valle Gran Rey on the west side of La Gomera to do PADI OpenWater courses before leaving for the Cape Verdes.
The next morning (Friday) we hired a car with Lauri & Annina and we went exploring around the island seeing the sights and trying to find an old car tire (sea anchor) and gas bottles filled for Aliisa.
We finally said farewell to Mr Crute around 5pm as we dropped him at the airport. Despite the horrific crossing he had to endure, I’m guessing this isn’t the last time Doris wecomes Mr Crute back aboard.
It was really good to see you again dude – we are already missing ya!
Back at the boat, we had some food and got an early night as Lindsey’s cold was starting to get the better of her.
Saturday morning saw us getting up late and we spent the afternoon with Kat who was on a mission to get a bikini and sunglasses for her crossing. It still feels strange knowing that we both started this little adventure together over a year ago and now she is crossing the Atlantic separately from me – irony!
Kat really has done well to land a position on one of the largest and most luxurious boats in the ARC a brand new 65ft Oyster! – It makes Doris look like a second hand dinghy!
Later that eve I picked Kat up from the beach again to watch the fireworks, which ended before I even got her back to the boat! We sat and talked for a while and before I knew it, it was gone 1am. It was an emotional farewell at the waters edge and we reflected on times gone by and the fact that she hadn’t really had time to get her head around what she was about to do. I have to say it was a weird feeling me rowing back to the boat and her walking off to the marina.
Sunday morning – ARC departure day. We woke and made our way ashore to watch the boats leave. (Un)Luckily, Kat had already left the marina and unbeknown to me had sailed right past Doris at anchor as she saw us rowing ashore, probably for the best as to actually see her depart may have got messy.
Lindsey and I spent the remainder of the afternoon rowing back and forth filling the water tank using cans from the taps on the beach. Lindsey has decided to stay with me aboard Doris at least until the Cape Verde islands.
Monday morning and the anchorage was now half empty compared to the pre ARC departure. We went ashore and washed every bit of dirty laundry we could find (my first washing since before Biscay!) and had showers in the marina facilities having ‘borrowed’ the key from some of Lindsey’s friends.
After returning to the boat we comprised a shopping list to get us to the Cape Verdes. Daniel of Luna came with us to the HyperDino supermarket where we managed to fill two trollies including more than a few fruit & vegetables, including cucumber of all things!!!
After paying we caught a taxi back to the beach which turned out to be a mini adventure due to the taxi driver first taking us in the wrong direction and then scratching his car due to impatience. The final straw came when Lindsey kept the change! Luckily, we were able to just get everything in the dinghy although I nearly lost Lindsey over the side resulting in wet jeans.
Back at the boat it looked like chaos with shopping everywhere. It seemed impossible to lose this much shopping inside the little storage space available. Not able to face it anymore and with Lindsey close to death due to her ever worsening cold, we ate pizza and went to bed.
Tuesday morning saw me get up and attack the shopping, managing to get everything stowed with room to spare. We have finally decided on a plan of action. As follows:
We will leave Las Palmas tomorrow morning (Weds 26th) and sail to the south of the island, drop anchor for some food and sleep before departing for Los Christianos on South Tenerife and then finally a day trip to Valle Gran Rey on the west side of La Gomera to do PADI OpenWater courses before leaving for the Cape Verdes.
Wednesday, 19 November 2008
Rubicon Lanzorote to Las Palmas Gran Canaria
Despite winds to F6 forecast we decided to leave the anchorage and set sail for Las Palmas late Tuesday afternoon. With just the headsail out we made an easy 5kn+ and due to the wind being behind us and the growing swell decided not to bother with the mainsail.
About one hour into the trip just as we were approaching the channel between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, where the sea gets a bit confused, Mr Crute developed his thousand mile stare. A few minutes later he was clawing for the windward rail and heaving his guts up! I did have to debate whether to continue as we were only one hour into a twenty hour passage. Eventually, he went below and tried to get some sleep. The seas got progressively rougher with me insisting that Lindsey get her waterproofs and life jacket on. It was strange to now have crew who I was responsible for.
Progress was quite fast with Doris doing around 6kn and surfing to 8kn+ in the 3m swell only interrupted by Doris falling off of the odd steep wave. Mr Crute later told us the only way he knew we were not going to die was the fact that he could hear that Lindsey and I were chatting in a relaxed manner!
Not really much else to report aside from it wasn’t the best passage for either Lindsey’s first aboard Doris or Mr Crute being a non-sailing type. Lindsey cooked some pasta which considering the conditions and the fact she had no idea where anything was stored, tasted amazing!
I helmed throughout the night while Lindsey got a few hours sleep, with Lindsey relieving me for an hour or so in the early hours. Mr Crute’s passage consisted of 2 hours on deck (1 hour each end) and about 18 hours with his eyes gaffa taped shut below!
When we finally sighted land the following morning, the depressing sight that is Las Palmas with its army of cranes guarding its entrance made us want to continue to somewhere nicer and were it not for Mr Crute’s flight in a few days time would have done so.
We also received a DSC call from Aliisa who were already anchored and they told us on no account to swim in the water it was so polluted!
We managed to find a spot in the busy anchorage and could see all the ARC boats in the marina opposite. With the anchor dug in we all fell asleep.
Later that eve we went ashore for some food in the ‘Sailors’ bar and to get some supplies and got a call from Kat who had landed a position on an ARC boat ‘MatchMaker’ which is a 65ft Oyster! Arriving back onboard Doris, Lindsey introduced me to Honey Rum – I’m hooked!
About one hour into the trip just as we were approaching the channel between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, where the sea gets a bit confused, Mr Crute developed his thousand mile stare. A few minutes later he was clawing for the windward rail and heaving his guts up! I did have to debate whether to continue as we were only one hour into a twenty hour passage. Eventually, he went below and tried to get some sleep. The seas got progressively rougher with me insisting that Lindsey get her waterproofs and life jacket on. It was strange to now have crew who I was responsible for.
Progress was quite fast with Doris doing around 6kn and surfing to 8kn+ in the 3m swell only interrupted by Doris falling off of the odd steep wave. Mr Crute later told us the only way he knew we were not going to die was the fact that he could hear that Lindsey and I were chatting in a relaxed manner!
Not really much else to report aside from it wasn’t the best passage for either Lindsey’s first aboard Doris or Mr Crute being a non-sailing type. Lindsey cooked some pasta which considering the conditions and the fact she had no idea where anything was stored, tasted amazing!
I helmed throughout the night while Lindsey got a few hours sleep, with Lindsey relieving me for an hour or so in the early hours. Mr Crute’s passage consisted of 2 hours on deck (1 hour each end) and about 18 hours with his eyes gaffa taped shut below!
When we finally sighted land the following morning, the depressing sight that is Las Palmas with its army of cranes guarding its entrance made us want to continue to somewhere nicer and were it not for Mr Crute’s flight in a few days time would have done so.
We also received a DSC call from Aliisa who were already anchored and they told us on no account to swim in the water it was so polluted!
We managed to find a spot in the busy anchorage and could see all the ARC boats in the marina opposite. With the anchor dug in we all fell asleep.
Later that eve we went ashore for some food in the ‘Sailors’ bar and to get some supplies and got a call from Kat who had landed a position on an ARC boat ‘MatchMaker’ which is a 65ft Oyster! Arriving back onboard Doris, Lindsey introduced me to Honey Rum – I’m hooked!
Thursday, 13 November 2008
Rubicon Anchorage 13.11.08 - 18.11.08
After several days of being ‘Billy NoMates’, Lindsey arrived on Thursday the 16th, and we were immediately joined that night by Aliisa (Lauri & Annina) and QuaterMoon (Sym & Amy) for a few beers.
It was really nice to have Lindsey aboard as I now had someone to eat ashore with and generally hang out with. We spent the days snorkelling, eating & drinking and watching a DVD.
Marcus (& Jess) arrived as planned on the 16th to meet Lindsey. Lindsey moving aboard Veracity to make room for Crutey who also had just arrived for his week holiday aboard Doris. That evening after a ‘run in’ with the local security guards for bringing our dinghies ashore on the sailing school slip and the ‘Ahole’ calling the police on us, we all went to a restaurant and caught up on what each other has been up to.
The next few days were spent snorkelling around the boat, drinking with our new found friends Amy & Sym on QuaterMoon and Crutey becoming a hardcore member of the Sea Pikey posse!
It was really nice to have Lindsey aboard as I now had someone to eat ashore with and generally hang out with. We spent the days snorkelling, eating & drinking and watching a DVD.
Marcus (& Jess) arrived as planned on the 16th to meet Lindsey. Lindsey moving aboard Veracity to make room for Crutey who also had just arrived for his week holiday aboard Doris. That evening after a ‘run in’ with the local security guards for bringing our dinghies ashore on the sailing school slip and the ‘Ahole’ calling the police on us, we all went to a restaurant and caught up on what each other has been up to.
The next few days were spent snorkelling around the boat, drinking with our new found friends Amy & Sym on QuaterMoon and Crutey becoming a hardcore member of the Sea Pikey posse!
It seems Mr Crute took to the lifestyle almost without any training as demonstrated by him jumping off the stern armed with a bottle of shampoo!!
On Tuesday 18th Lindsey decided to leave Veracity and we welcomed Lindsey back aboard Doris just before we were to depart for Las Palmas in Gran Canaria. Doris has crew!
On Tuesday 18th Lindsey decided to leave Veracity and we welcomed Lindsey back aboard Doris just before we were to depart for Las Palmas in Gran Canaria. Doris has crew!
Tuesday, 11 November 2008
Lanzarote – Rubicon (Anchorage)
So whats been going on?... Well I stayed in Graciosa for a day, spending that day chilling out and getting the gallon or so of water from the forward bilges. Greg (an American single hander who we met in Madeira) on Carina was also anchored up opposite and the plan was for us both to leave for Rubicon marina the next day. Just after I set off he called me to say his anchor was fouled and was not going to be able to leave. I haven’t heard anything else from him since.
The sail down to south Lanzo was great with Doris sailing and steering herself in the following winds and seas. It was a bit swelly with waves coming from the W / NW which was a bit confusing given the trades are usually NE. I am guessing it was as a result of swell wrapping through the islands. Anyway, under headsail alone, we made a constant 5knots until the final headland where confused seas and what felt like a strong current forced me to use the engine for the final mile or so into the anchorage outside Rubicon marina.
The first attempt at laying the anchor resulted in me jumping over the side armed with snorkel and mask to find it laying in rocks meaning either the anchor was likely to pull or get fouled. A second attempt found a patch of sand just before it started to get dark.
I managed to assemble the dinghy on the foredeck and went ashore to meet Kat and her skipper Charlie. Kat is over here helping Charlie get Neroli (of Fowey), a 42ft Halberg Rassy ready for the ARC. At this stage Kat is trying to ‘hitch’ a ride with an ARC boat (maybe Neroli?) and will go to Las Palmas with Charlie and crew to find that ride.
After they finished eating Kat and myself went to the bar and then back to Doris. It was really good to see her again as it’s been over 3 months since I left the UK and her behind. The last few days have been very enjoyable and emotional. Its been slightly awkward in getting ashore to see Kat as I am ‘banned’ from entering the marina as I do not have an engine and rowing is not allowed!
Not much else has happened over the last few days. Crutey has booked his flights and will be arriving here in Rubicon marina on Sunday 16th and we will then sail to Las Palmas as well, where he leaves the following Friday.
Other late breaking news, Lindsay (of Veracity fame) will be coming out and arrives here on (this) Thursday 13th before meeting Marcus who is on his way from Madeira.
Lauri & Annina (hope I spelt that right) of Aliisa has just arrived today in Rubicon. They will enjoy the luxuries of the marina and I hope to share a beer or two with them over the next few days.
It’s a bit lonely out here in the anchorage now and with Kat gone, I look forward to my visitors. 
The sail down to south Lanzo was great with Doris sailing and steering herself in the following winds and seas. It was a bit swelly with waves coming from the W / NW which was a bit confusing given the trades are usually NE. I am guessing it was as a result of swell wrapping through the islands. Anyway, under headsail alone, we made a constant 5knots until the final headland where confused seas and what felt like a strong current forced me to use the engine for the final mile or so into the anchorage outside Rubicon marina.
The first attempt at laying the anchor resulted in me jumping over the side armed with snorkel and mask to find it laying in rocks meaning either the anchor was likely to pull or get fouled. A second attempt found a patch of sand just before it started to get dark.
I managed to assemble the dinghy on the foredeck and went ashore to meet Kat and her skipper Charlie. Kat is over here helping Charlie get Neroli (of Fowey), a 42ft Halberg Rassy ready for the ARC. At this stage Kat is trying to ‘hitch’ a ride with an ARC boat (maybe Neroli?) and will go to Las Palmas with Charlie and crew to find that ride.
After they finished eating Kat and myself went to the bar and then back to Doris. It was really good to see her again as it’s been over 3 months since I left the UK and her behind. The last few days have been very enjoyable and emotional. Its been slightly awkward in getting ashore to see Kat as I am ‘banned’ from entering the marina as I do not have an engine and rowing is not allowed!
Not much else has happened over the last few days. Crutey has booked his flights and will be arriving here in Rubicon marina on Sunday 16th and we will then sail to Las Palmas as well, where he leaves the following Friday.
Other late breaking news, Lindsay (of Veracity fame) will be coming out and arrives here on (this) Thursday 13th before meeting Marcus who is on his way from Madeira.
Lauri & Annina (hope I spelt that right) of Aliisa has just arrived today in Rubicon. They will enjoy the luxuries of the marina and I hope to share a beer or two with them over the next few days.
It’s a bit lonely out here in the anchorage now and with Kat gone, I look forward to my visitors.
At least I have some WiFi depending on the boats angle!
So … Looks like its all coming together nicely! Marcus get a move on, Steve (Zanda) stop playing around and get over here! Luna & Carma – see you both in Las Palmas! Theres a few ARC parties we need to get into!
So … Looks like its all coming together nicely! Marcus get a move on, Steve (Zanda) stop playing around and get over here! Luna & Carma – see you both in Las Palmas! Theres a few ARC parties we need to get into!
Self Portrait.... The 'Ol Seadog' I have become!
Wednesday, 5 November 2008
Machico To Lanzarote
Day 0.
I decided to leave the fishing harbour wall and return to Baia Da Abra for a nice relaxed start to the journey. This in itself proved to be stressful! Due to limited space we decided to warp Doris’ bow round to open water as I didn’t want to spring against the wall itself and use really long ropes to do so – big mistake. Needless to say Doris now bares another scar due to her incompetent skipper.
It seems as if Madeira really had it in for me because no sooner had I got out into clear water two squalls came down from the hills and drenched everything and tried to blow me out to sea with 30kn winds. Luckily they abated as I reached the anchorage. However, as expected the gusts came throughout the night but with my new found trust in the 10kg lump of galvanised steel at the end of my bow I slept reasonably well.
I decided to leave the fishing harbour wall and return to Baia Da Abra for a nice relaxed start to the journey. This in itself proved to be stressful! Due to limited space we decided to warp Doris’ bow round to open water as I didn’t want to spring against the wall itself and use really long ropes to do so – big mistake. Needless to say Doris now bares another scar due to her incompetent skipper.
It seems as if Madeira really had it in for me because no sooner had I got out into clear water two squalls came down from the hills and drenched everything and tried to blow me out to sea with 30kn winds. Luckily they abated as I reached the anchorage. However, as expected the gusts came throughout the night but with my new found trust in the 10kg lump of galvanised steel at the end of my bow I slept reasonably well.
Day 1.
I awoke naturally around 0800am and had a bite of breakfast before getting Doris ready to sail. Finally lifting the anchor around 0900. We were on our way at last! I knew the seas were still big out of the shadow of Madeira so decided to take it nice and slow as they continued to drop as forecast.
I sailed most of the first day under headsail alone at around 4kn until clearing the Isla Desertas. Over the radio it was clear that a lot of people were taking advantage of the weather window with a small flotilla heading for Isla Graciosa.
Once clear of the Madeiras the seas and wind started to increase and with the mainsail now up for increased drive through the swell I was finding it hard to get the Hydrovane to steer reliably with the wind on the beam.
After what seemed ages and failed attempts to sleep in the cockpit by lying on the asymmetric, I finally found the answer. REEF! Like an idiot I should have known better with the wind around F5 and 2-3m beam seas I found the answer in a double reefed mainsail and ¾ jib. This may sound like under canvassed but I have learnt that the ideal canvas for general sailing in daytime is completely different for long distance cruising, especially if you do not want to spend your life behind the wheel or worrying about the boat either rounding up and tearing off at a rate of knots in the wrong direction or gybing and threatening the rig while you (try to) sleep.
The Hanse boats carry a lot of sail for their size and needless to say are very fast, but can be temperamental when it comes to Self-Steering not unlike comparing a Volvo with a Race car in terms of handling and I have been told that the mainsail is the same size as other production boats with 1 reef in!
Once the boat could be relied on to look after herself I started to get some sleep. For some reason, immediately after indulging in some chicken noodles I began to feel sick and couldn’t make up my mind whether it was mild sea sickness or the food. This nauseous feeling continued all night and was most prominent after waking up from a ‘Cat Nap’, so sea sickness I’m guessing.
Another lesson re-learnt was closing the heads stop cocks while at sea. Excessive heeling fills the shower tray with water and thus leaks into the fore cabin and salon – doh!
Day 2.
While I had some sleep I found myself feeling very tired on the second day and therefore extremely lazy. The wind (and seas) had dropped and instead of working to keep the boat at around 5kn I relaxed and listened to music. I did try several alternative sail configurations but as the wind continued to drop the flapping sails drove me mental with frustration. I should have pulled out the asymmetric but this seemed like a lot of hard work. Eventually in the late afternoon I even pulled down the mainsail ghosting along with the self tacking jib at around 3kn and sleeping.
Just before it got completely dark I reraised the mainsail as this chore is almost impossible with the lazy jacks at night and continued to focus on sleeping with a speed of around 3-4kn. The mainsail was as tight as a drum, flat and heavily reefed to stop it flapping in the flukey light winds and I could (should) have shaken out the reefs several times but simply could not be bothered!
Throughout this trip I slept my usual 30 minute shifts from around 1900 (dark) to 0700 (daylight), several times trying to sleep for a complete hour. However, the longest single sleep was 30mins. For some reason I wake up at the 20min mark and while through the course of a night I must sleep several hours the fragmentation does start to affect me. I noticed that while awake I constantly hear music in my head as a culmination of several different songs and also voices of people outside the boat. When I say ‘in my head’ I actually ‘hear’ the sounds externally – which is mildly disturbing! Several times I was convinced a yacht of people were almost alongside me! I was also aware of the approaching landfall and knew there would be a cut off point where no further sleep would be possible. It seems that 2 nights (3 days) at sea are not long enough to fall into the proper groove of sailing properly.
Day 3.
On day three the actual realisation that I would be arriving in the dark finally hit home and I started racing the clock! A bit of a pointless process to be honest as I would probably have to maintain around 10kn throughout the day, but it seemed to provide me with some motivation to sail harder. It did occur to me to simply stay offshore but that seemed a bit excessive for such a small trip.
I sighted land around 40nm offshore, the sun was out and ELO’s Mr BlueSky was playing loud at the time. Its always a nice feeling when you first sight your destination – assuming it is the place you intended! I thought that Kat might actually see me from her plane above as she was due to arrive that same day.
Needless to say Doris done me proud maintaining a speed of around 6-7kn SOG. On approaching landfall (not long after dark) the wind rose to 20kn and the seas got quite steep as the waters shallowed, with Doris regularly surfing over 10kn.
Getting the mainsail down was exciting and looked like a dog’s dinner once I had finally wrestled it into submission. With the engine on and the wind blowing the approach seemed very scary in the dark and I soon aborted the original plan to go into Playa Francesa anchorage. Mainly due to what seemed limited space and a fear of boats without anchor lights! If anyone concerned is reading this - Go out and get an anchor light you stupid B*STARDS and make life safer for the rest of us. I am sure there was room to fit in but I didn’t want to weave my way through those boats I could see into a bay surrounded by reefs containing other unlit boats.
The next bay up the channel was almost empty and a lot bigger. With the anchor touching the bottom in just under 5m of water I was completely shattered! I said a little prayer that the anchor would hold as I was in no fit shape to deal with a dragging anchor and would probably sleep until washed up on the rocks!
I made myself tidy the boat as the sight of the cockpit full of ropes was depressing before getting a phone call from Kat to say she had arrived in Rubicon marina south Lanzatote. Again it feels weird to be in the same area (40nm away) for the same reasons but separately. Anyway after a quick chat I dived into bed immediately falling into a deep sleep.
I awoke naturally around 0800am and had a bite of breakfast before getting Doris ready to sail. Finally lifting the anchor around 0900. We were on our way at last! I knew the seas were still big out of the shadow of Madeira so decided to take it nice and slow as they continued to drop as forecast.
I sailed most of the first day under headsail alone at around 4kn until clearing the Isla Desertas. Over the radio it was clear that a lot of people were taking advantage of the weather window with a small flotilla heading for Isla Graciosa.
Once clear of the Madeiras the seas and wind started to increase and with the mainsail now up for increased drive through the swell I was finding it hard to get the Hydrovane to steer reliably with the wind on the beam.
After what seemed ages and failed attempts to sleep in the cockpit by lying on the asymmetric, I finally found the answer. REEF! Like an idiot I should have known better with the wind around F5 and 2-3m beam seas I found the answer in a double reefed mainsail and ¾ jib. This may sound like under canvassed but I have learnt that the ideal canvas for general sailing in daytime is completely different for long distance cruising, especially if you do not want to spend your life behind the wheel or worrying about the boat either rounding up and tearing off at a rate of knots in the wrong direction or gybing and threatening the rig while you (try to) sleep.
The Hanse boats carry a lot of sail for their size and needless to say are very fast, but can be temperamental when it comes to Self-Steering not unlike comparing a Volvo with a Race car in terms of handling and I have been told that the mainsail is the same size as other production boats with 1 reef in!
Once the boat could be relied on to look after herself I started to get some sleep. For some reason, immediately after indulging in some chicken noodles I began to feel sick and couldn’t make up my mind whether it was mild sea sickness or the food. This nauseous feeling continued all night and was most prominent after waking up from a ‘Cat Nap’, so sea sickness I’m guessing.
Another lesson re-learnt was closing the heads stop cocks while at sea. Excessive heeling fills the shower tray with water and thus leaks into the fore cabin and salon – doh!
Day 2.
While I had some sleep I found myself feeling very tired on the second day and therefore extremely lazy. The wind (and seas) had dropped and instead of working to keep the boat at around 5kn I relaxed and listened to music. I did try several alternative sail configurations but as the wind continued to drop the flapping sails drove me mental with frustration. I should have pulled out the asymmetric but this seemed like a lot of hard work. Eventually in the late afternoon I even pulled down the mainsail ghosting along with the self tacking jib at around 3kn and sleeping.
Just before it got completely dark I reraised the mainsail as this chore is almost impossible with the lazy jacks at night and continued to focus on sleeping with a speed of around 3-4kn. The mainsail was as tight as a drum, flat and heavily reefed to stop it flapping in the flukey light winds and I could (should) have shaken out the reefs several times but simply could not be bothered!
Throughout this trip I slept my usual 30 minute shifts from around 1900 (dark) to 0700 (daylight), several times trying to sleep for a complete hour. However, the longest single sleep was 30mins. For some reason I wake up at the 20min mark and while through the course of a night I must sleep several hours the fragmentation does start to affect me. I noticed that while awake I constantly hear music in my head as a culmination of several different songs and also voices of people outside the boat. When I say ‘in my head’ I actually ‘hear’ the sounds externally – which is mildly disturbing! Several times I was convinced a yacht of people were almost alongside me! I was also aware of the approaching landfall and knew there would be a cut off point where no further sleep would be possible. It seems that 2 nights (3 days) at sea are not long enough to fall into the proper groove of sailing properly.
Day 3.
On day three the actual realisation that I would be arriving in the dark finally hit home and I started racing the clock! A bit of a pointless process to be honest as I would probably have to maintain around 10kn throughout the day, but it seemed to provide me with some motivation to sail harder. It did occur to me to simply stay offshore but that seemed a bit excessive for such a small trip.
I sighted land around 40nm offshore, the sun was out and ELO’s Mr BlueSky was playing loud at the time. Its always a nice feeling when you first sight your destination – assuming it is the place you intended! I thought that Kat might actually see me from her plane above as she was due to arrive that same day.
Needless to say Doris done me proud maintaining a speed of around 6-7kn SOG. On approaching landfall (not long after dark) the wind rose to 20kn and the seas got quite steep as the waters shallowed, with Doris regularly surfing over 10kn.
Getting the mainsail down was exciting and looked like a dog’s dinner once I had finally wrestled it into submission. With the engine on and the wind blowing the approach seemed very scary in the dark and I soon aborted the original plan to go into Playa Francesa anchorage. Mainly due to what seemed limited space and a fear of boats without anchor lights! If anyone concerned is reading this - Go out and get an anchor light you stupid B*STARDS and make life safer for the rest of us. I am sure there was room to fit in but I didn’t want to weave my way through those boats I could see into a bay surrounded by reefs containing other unlit boats.
The next bay up the channel was almost empty and a lot bigger. With the anchor touching the bottom in just under 5m of water I was completely shattered! I said a little prayer that the anchor would hold as I was in no fit shape to deal with a dragging anchor and would probably sleep until washed up on the rocks!
I made myself tidy the boat as the sight of the cockpit full of ropes was depressing before getting a phone call from Kat to say she had arrived in Rubicon marina south Lanzatote. Again it feels weird to be in the same area (40nm away) for the same reasons but separately. Anyway after a quick chat I dived into bed immediately falling into a deep sleep.
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Almost Out of Here...
OK peeps - Probz last post for a few days.
Madeira looks like it has finally got bored of holding us captive and the gods are letting us leave. Us being (Mattias on Carma, Daniel on Luna and Doris and I).
The seas are due to drop from tomorrow onwards...
You havent missed much, its been raining throughout each day and climbing the slimey harbour wall is getting boring now. In retrospect Africa may have been a better choice of route - maybe not?
All being well I should arrive in the Canaries around mid next week, however, landfall is an anchorage (Playa Francesa) on Isla Graciosa North of Lanzagrotty and will probably be sans WIFI.
I think I will leave tonight to spend the night at anchor (A la Montissier) before setting sail in a relaxed fashion tomorrow morning... I like becoming 'one' with the boat and the sea before departing!
Where is everyone else enroute and how is life? Please post a comment with your position and intended destination etc ... it would be good to hook up with all you cruisers for more BBQ's etc
All you guys in the real world .. drop me a line and let me know ASAP if you plan on getting some sunshine out here!
C ya all soon...
Boo & Doris.
Madeira looks like it has finally got bored of holding us captive and the gods are letting us leave. Us being (Mattias on Carma, Daniel on Luna and Doris and I).
The seas are due to drop from tomorrow onwards...
You havent missed much, its been raining throughout each day and climbing the slimey harbour wall is getting boring now. In retrospect Africa may have been a better choice of route - maybe not?
All being well I should arrive in the Canaries around mid next week, however, landfall is an anchorage (Playa Francesa) on Isla Graciosa North of Lanzagrotty and will probably be sans WIFI.
I think I will leave tonight to spend the night at anchor (A la Montissier) before setting sail in a relaxed fashion tomorrow morning... I like becoming 'one' with the boat and the sea before departing!
Where is everyone else enroute and how is life? Please post a comment with your position and intended destination etc ... it would be good to hook up with all you cruisers for more BBQ's etc
All you guys in the real world .. drop me a line and let me know ASAP if you plan on getting some sunshine out here!
C ya all soon...
Boo & Doris.
Wednesday, 29 October 2008
Machico - Internet Access At Last!
We couldn't take it any longer! This morning we upped anchor and sailed the 4 miles to Machico a small 'locals only' fishing harbour / marina and found a space against the wall. I am moored alongside Luna (Daniel) and Carma (Maetias) is just behind us alongside another yacht.
Best of all we can reach the WIFI connection!
We have just been ashore and fried sausage, eggs and chips never tasted so good!
I will try and post some pics for the oder posts a bit later. Just outside the harbour the waves are breaking along a small beach and this might be a good chance to get the surfboards out if the swell pics up just a little.
Best of all we can reach the WIFI connection!
We have just been ashore and fried sausage, eggs and chips never tasted so good!
I will try and post some pics for the oder posts a bit later. Just outside the harbour the waves are breaking along a small beach and this might be a good chance to get the surfboards out if the swell pics up just a little.
Saturday, 25 October 2008
Madeira (2)
Not much to tell you folks really, its remained quite windy and rains (showers) every day and while the sun is hot when its out the overall feeling is quite chilly!
Yesterday (Friday 24th) I got the engine serviced and then left the marina Quinta Do Lorde heading straight for the anchorage Baia Da Abra literally a mile around the corner. Daniel had left just before me and was already there and Maetias joined us a while later.
The natural bay is surrounded by cliffs and the water remains quite deep inshore. With the wind funnelling down through the surrounding cliffs and being in about 9m of water it was time to test out the 30m of 18mm anchor rope I purchased for such occasions back in Baiona Spain. I would be sweating all night on just 30m of chain in such depths with strong winds.
Yesterday (Friday 24th) I got the engine serviced and then left the marina Quinta Do Lorde heading straight for the anchorage Baia Da Abra literally a mile around the corner. Daniel had left just before me and was already there and Maetias joined us a while later.
The natural bay is surrounded by cliffs and the water remains quite deep inshore. With the wind funnelling down through the surrounding cliffs and being in about 9m of water it was time to test out the 30m of 18mm anchor rope I purchased for such occasions back in Baiona Spain. I would be sweating all night on just 30m of chain in such depths with strong winds.
Wednesday, 22 October 2008
Madeira
Wednesday 22nd October
After a windy night I woke up to properly check in to the marina before taking a shower. It may be possible to get my engine service properly by an authorised Yanmar dealer and thus maintain my warranty. I could do the job myself having all the spares onboard but its nice to keep the worldwide warranty valid both for peace of mind and to maintain the value of the boat.
Prav, another confession - Remember that wash kit you had at my flat, well I started using your shower gel and due to me being in a rush to catch a buslike an idiot I left it behind in the showers - gutted!
Anyways, we (Daniel, Maetias and I) caught the bus to Funchal where we really didn't do much except look around and drink a few beers. To be honest it's like any other city with a grotty harbour and millions of tourists either on holiday or fresh of the cruise liners. Sorry Mr Crute, I couldn't be bothered to pursue the cable car or 'sleigh ride' down.
The bus ride back to the marina was entertaining enough with the driver 'almost' out of control and revving the engine to within an inch of itslife! With the ocean to my right about 300ft straight down, one mistake andit would be all over - and they say 'single handing' is dangerous!
I did however, buy a new diving weight belt with two 1kg plates. Hopefully when I get out of the marina when the winds die down I can do some more diving and see if it makes things easier rather than fighting the buoyancyof my wetsuit - ok and my fat! There is an anchorage literally a stonesthrow from the marina which, according to the pilot book, is supposed to be awesome for snorkelling and swimming.
Back at the marina we went for a bite to eat and met a few other cruisers and all sat talking boats until rain stopped play.
Prav, another confession - Remember that wash kit you had at my flat, well I started using your shower gel and due to me being in a rush to catch a buslike an idiot I left it behind in the showers - gutted!
Anyways, we (Daniel, Maetias and I) caught the bus to Funchal where we really didn't do much except look around and drink a few beers. To be honest it's like any other city with a grotty harbour and millions of tourists either on holiday or fresh of the cruise liners. Sorry Mr Crute, I couldn't be bothered to pursue the cable car or 'sleigh ride' down.
The bus ride back to the marina was entertaining enough with the driver 'almost' out of control and revving the engine to within an inch of itslife! With the ocean to my right about 300ft straight down, one mistake andit would be all over - and they say 'single handing' is dangerous!
I did however, buy a new diving weight belt with two 1kg plates. Hopefully when I get out of the marina when the winds die down I can do some more diving and see if it makes things easier rather than fighting the buoyancyof my wetsuit - ok and my fat! There is an anchorage literally a stonesthrow from the marina which, according to the pilot book, is supposed to be awesome for snorkelling and swimming.
Back at the marina we went for a bite to eat and met a few other cruisers and all sat talking boats until rain stopped play.
Tuesday, 21 October 2008
Porto Santo to Madeira
Tuesday 21st October
Not wanting to be trapped in Porto Santo due to the approaching (next 24hours) bad weather, we (Daniel, Maetias and I) left for Madeira at 0900am. With very little wind for the first few hours our progress was pretty slow and I decided to try some fishing. I immediately caught a good size fish which looked like a really big and fat Mackerel or very small Tuna!
It wasn't the brightest idea to leave the fish dangling in the water while I sorted out a bucket, after all who wants fish blood over their teak! This one lived to fight another day.
The wind filled in to a healthy 10kn and Daniel and I soon took off leaving Maetias a spot on the horizon. It was a pleasant if not boring sail and we arrived at Quinta Do Lorde marina by 1800pm with Willem lending a helpful hand with the lines. Maetias arrived some hours later and we went to the restaurant to get an easy bite to eat. Just before calling it a day the wind started to build as the promised bad weather arrived. With gusts to 35kn I had to adjust the lines to stop the bows hitting the pontoon due to rope stretch and then later in the middle of the night go on deck to double the lines for fear of them snapping!
Monday, 20 October 2008
Porto Santo
Sunday 19th October
Woke up and went ashore to the marina with Daniel (Luna) to check in officially. Mathias a guy that Daniel first met in Vigo Spain had also arrived and was moored in the marina.
Maetias is Swedish and had built his own boat (Carma) completely from scratch. This boat has to be seen to be believed!
Maetias is Swedish and had built his own boat (Carma) completely from scratch. This boat has to be seen to be believed!
At 19ft long it looks like a miniature submarine with a tiny mast. Inside is pretty basic and the thing is 'unsinkable' even when full of water. Lastly, there is no engine but he does have an oar! Due to delays in the build, Maetias had trailer'ed the boat to Vigo to avoid the North Sea and Biscay out of season and sailed from Vigo to Porto Santo over the last 11 days - the maiden voyage! Like the rest of us Maetias is also heading for the Caribbean via the Canaries.
We all went into town where I also met Willem (last seen in Cascais) who was also in the marina. The four of us took the open top bus tourist bus trip around the island.
We all went into town where I also met Willem (last seen in Cascais) who was also in the marina. The four of us took the open top bus tourist bus trip around the island.
To be honest there's not much to report on, it's a tiny island with a few nice beaches. After the tour we got some shopping and arranged to meet on the beach for a bbq.
Monday 20th October
Despite the approaching bad weather, we all (except Willem) decided to stayan extra day in Porto Santo. I decided to spend the day on the boatsnorkelling and practicing my 'free diving'. After several attempts andspending longer and longer under water I decided I was going to 'touchbottom' in the 7m of water in which I was anchored 'if it killed me'.
When looking down at the bottom from the surface it doesn't look too faraway. I was finding it hard work to get down due to the buoyancy of myshortie wetsuit and also had to abort several attempts due not being able toequalise my ears properly. I slowly got used to the pressures and was goingdeeper and deeper. When I finally did reach the bottom I turned to look upand start my ascent and scared the crap out of myself! The surface lookedmiles away with Doris silhouetted against the sky a long long way away.Kicking like mad I made the surface gagging to take a breath. I repeated theexercise over and over until I was relaxed being so deep and found thatthere was reason to rush back to the surface. In fact, it's quite addictivewith the water being so clear and deep blue it's amazing down there and youhave to remind yourself to come back up in good time! I really need to buy aweight belt as I use most of my air in simply working to get down there andstay there. My new target is to get down to 10m depth which I will work onslowly over the next few months, mainly because I want to know that I canreach my anchor if required.
Due to the bottom being clean sand there were only a handful of tiny fishand starfish around so no point in unleashing the speargun ('the bitch').All in all, I went in the water for two sessions and was pretty tired by theevening. I made a few preparations for tomorrows sail to Madeira beforegoing to bed.
Monday 20th October
Despite the approaching bad weather, we all (except Willem) decided to stayan extra day in Porto Santo. I decided to spend the day on the boatsnorkelling and practicing my 'free diving'. After several attempts andspending longer and longer under water I decided I was going to 'touchbottom' in the 7m of water in which I was anchored 'if it killed me'.
When looking down at the bottom from the surface it doesn't look too faraway. I was finding it hard work to get down due to the buoyancy of myshortie wetsuit and also had to abort several attempts due not being able toequalise my ears properly. I slowly got used to the pressures and was goingdeeper and deeper. When I finally did reach the bottom I turned to look upand start my ascent and scared the crap out of myself! The surface lookedmiles away with Doris silhouetted against the sky a long long way away.Kicking like mad I made the surface gagging to take a breath. I repeated theexercise over and over until I was relaxed being so deep and found thatthere was reason to rush back to the surface. In fact, it's quite addictivewith the water being so clear and deep blue it's amazing down there and youhave to remind yourself to come back up in good time! I really need to buy aweight belt as I use most of my air in simply working to get down there andstay there. My new target is to get down to 10m depth which I will work onslowly over the next few months, mainly because I want to know that I canreach my anchor if required.
Due to the bottom being clean sand there were only a handful of tiny fishand starfish around so no point in unleashing the speargun ('the bitch').All in all, I went in the water for two sessions and was pretty tired by theevening. I made a few preparations for tomorrows sail to Madeira beforegoing to bed.
Sines To Port Santo
14.10.08 - 18.10.08
After my initial plan to wake up very early, I decided to just wake up normally and not make any rush to set off simply because the passage would be around five days and a few hours wasn’t going to make much difference. I mentally made a note of the time as Doris left the Sines marina pontoon, 0808utc the same date I left Brighton back in August.
I had tried to raise Bruce from the dead several times to say ‘farewell’ with no response (showering I later found out) and got the marina attendant to give me hand holding the bows until I was behind the wheel. Just as I was leaving the marina the voices of Niels (still at anchor) & Bruce could be heard over the radio VHF72 bidding me ‘Bon Voyage’. Make sure you guys stay in touch, it was great fun being around you both and I learnt lots from you. Stay safe and well both of you.
Once out into open water outside the marina the wind died a death, ‘a great bloody start’ I thought. The engine hours were 216 when I left and I wanted to reduce the engine usage as much as possible over the next few days, especially as I am due a second service.
Over a quick phone call to Kat the wind reappeared and we were off and sailing by 0900utc. The wind was over the beam and made for some great sailing and I had to keep reminding myself not to ‘over sail’ and relax. By evening the wind had got up with a swelly sea making Doris start to slam off the waves a little. With 2 reefs in the mainsail and a reefed jib I was still doing 7-8 knots of speed, good for progress but making life aboard hard work and sleep impossible.
Eventually by early morning the wind freed a little allowing me to sail more downwind with the wind now behind the beam making it more comfortable and possible to get some sleep now that I was about 100nm into the journey.
I kept the same routine throughout the trip and that is to take a few (too few) short (15-30 mins) ‘cat naps’ during daytime and then the same just after it got dark (1900utc) and then doing longer (30-60 mins) sleeps after midnight until daylight around 0700utc. All the time the faithful kitchen timer served me well and I actually thought on passage that if it broke I would be pretty stuffed and have to constantly charge and use my mobile phone as an alarm clock, maybe a back up should be considered essential.
In retrospect it is probably better to sleep during the day as visibility is better and there is less chance of someone (Commercial Shipping) running into you. However, who wants to simply sleep the way across, missing the daylight only to sit there staring into darkness in the cold and damp of the night.
My experience now allows me to think that despite horror stories of nobody on watch, the commercial shipping is very aware of the traffic around them. Each time I came into close proximity to ships they always changed course early enough for me to realise they would clear me by a safe distance. Those that made me a little worried, I called up on the VHF by approximate Lat & Long and they responded politely and stated their intended course around me. They also served to provide me with weather forecasts and whether there were any other vessels in the vicinity approaching.
I wonder how many ships I was close too during the hours of darkness when asleep as those that I did see were few and far between compared to daylight numbers, some of which got quite close. It’s probably better that I don’t know! In conclusion, I really need to think about getting either an AIS receiver or Mer Vielle (radar detector) to allow me to sleep more soundly on longer passages. Sleeping with ‘one eye open’ makes for wasted time trying to relax.
I think the shipping is largely ‘steered’ by computer in that radar and AIS constantly monitor the surrounding area and set off alarms based on CPA (Closest Point of Approach). I assume that my visibility to shipping is purely reliant on my radar reflector and hence I get very worried when low rain clouds descend as I am likely lost in the associated clutter on the radar screen.
Each time I set the timer for 15 minutes, I found that just as I relaxed the alarm sounded. On 30 minutes, the first 15 minutes was spent ‘trying’ to sleep. It wasn’t until the second or third consecutive 60 minute sleeps that I could fall straight back into deep sleep – the good stuff called REM sleep. The fact that I was dreaming meant that I was sleeping sound enough to get some benefit from it despite each session being short lived. However, the fact that I fell straight into deep sleep also implies that I wasn’t fully awake when checking the horizon!
Also, it’s a shock to the system when the odd big wave bangs against the hull, you wake up in an instant, heart thumping and adrenaline hitting your brain just as you get to the companionway expecting to see a huge tanker alongside, only to look at clear open ocean. Not good for your nerves!
Aside from the problems with sleep, the passage went very smoothly with wind mostly from astern. Most of the trip being made with a reefed and prevented mainsail hard against the spreaders (thank god I got the sail patches applied) and either a poled out jib or scrap of over sheeted jib to keep some balance. The Hanse 350 does not like going deep downwind on the Hydrovane with a full mainsail as she eventually rounds up, especially with a swell running, even with the mainsail luffing she continues to sail up into wind. I haven’t tried a full mainsail with poled out genoa yet so this may be the answer.
I spent most days simply absorbing the view and pondering over various trains of thought. I also found myself naked a lot of the time as it was so warm, besides who was going to see me? Thanks to Stu & Rach for ‘The Sailing Companion’, this book kept me company for a while – brilliant! I plotted my position every 6hrs and sent updates to ‘The Ground Crew’ via SatPhone each 0900utc.
All went smoothly until the final 50nm. I would have arrived at night which I hate doing. Also the wind had got up a bit and I was now on a close reach meaning Doris was again starting to slam when going to fast. I decided to reduce sail right down to a bare minimum (2 reefs and a scrap of jib) just to keep her plodding along around 2kn and get some sleep throughout the night.
Upon waking up from a 30 minute nap, around 30nm from landfall I was greeted by the sight of two cruise liners about 1nm away, one either side of my stern and this was my ‘wake up call’ with no more sleep being possible!
Upon reaching the last mile I watched as a huge squall descended from the mountains. It seemed like an artificial storm and was surreal as the wind went from 10kn to 30+kn in about 30 seconds. Rain pouring down I yanked down the mainsail and secured it with a sail tie before getting the engine on. At least I would have hot water and charged batteries when I arrived.
The squall lasted barely 15 minutes and I was soon just outside the marina. To the left of the marina is a huge beach where there were about five other boats anchored and it didn’t take much to convince me that this was going to be my choice of residence for the next few days.
I dropped the hook into about 4m (under the keel) at the bottom of the tide over sand.
I had tried to raise Bruce from the dead several times to say ‘farewell’ with no response (showering I later found out) and got the marina attendant to give me hand holding the bows until I was behind the wheel. Just as I was leaving the marina the voices of Niels (still at anchor) & Bruce could be heard over the radio VHF72 bidding me ‘Bon Voyage’. Make sure you guys stay in touch, it was great fun being around you both and I learnt lots from you. Stay safe and well both of you.
Once out into open water outside the marina the wind died a death, ‘a great bloody start’ I thought. The engine hours were 216 when I left and I wanted to reduce the engine usage as much as possible over the next few days, especially as I am due a second service.
Over a quick phone call to Kat the wind reappeared and we were off and sailing by 0900utc. The wind was over the beam and made for some great sailing and I had to keep reminding myself not to ‘over sail’ and relax. By evening the wind had got up with a swelly sea making Doris start to slam off the waves a little. With 2 reefs in the mainsail and a reefed jib I was still doing 7-8 knots of speed, good for progress but making life aboard hard work and sleep impossible.
Eventually by early morning the wind freed a little allowing me to sail more downwind with the wind now behind the beam making it more comfortable and possible to get some sleep now that I was about 100nm into the journey.
I kept the same routine throughout the trip and that is to take a few (too few) short (15-30 mins) ‘cat naps’ during daytime and then the same just after it got dark (1900utc) and then doing longer (30-60 mins) sleeps after midnight until daylight around 0700utc. All the time the faithful kitchen timer served me well and I actually thought on passage that if it broke I would be pretty stuffed and have to constantly charge and use my mobile phone as an alarm clock, maybe a back up should be considered essential.
In retrospect it is probably better to sleep during the day as visibility is better and there is less chance of someone (Commercial Shipping) running into you. However, who wants to simply sleep the way across, missing the daylight only to sit there staring into darkness in the cold and damp of the night.
My experience now allows me to think that despite horror stories of nobody on watch, the commercial shipping is very aware of the traffic around them. Each time I came into close proximity to ships they always changed course early enough for me to realise they would clear me by a safe distance. Those that made me a little worried, I called up on the VHF by approximate Lat & Long and they responded politely and stated their intended course around me. They also served to provide me with weather forecasts and whether there were any other vessels in the vicinity approaching.
I wonder how many ships I was close too during the hours of darkness when asleep as those that I did see were few and far between compared to daylight numbers, some of which got quite close. It’s probably better that I don’t know! In conclusion, I really need to think about getting either an AIS receiver or Mer Vielle (radar detector) to allow me to sleep more soundly on longer passages. Sleeping with ‘one eye open’ makes for wasted time trying to relax.
I think the shipping is largely ‘steered’ by computer in that radar and AIS constantly monitor the surrounding area and set off alarms based on CPA (Closest Point of Approach). I assume that my visibility to shipping is purely reliant on my radar reflector and hence I get very worried when low rain clouds descend as I am likely lost in the associated clutter on the radar screen.
Each time I set the timer for 15 minutes, I found that just as I relaxed the alarm sounded. On 30 minutes, the first 15 minutes was spent ‘trying’ to sleep. It wasn’t until the second or third consecutive 60 minute sleeps that I could fall straight back into deep sleep – the good stuff called REM sleep. The fact that I was dreaming meant that I was sleeping sound enough to get some benefit from it despite each session being short lived. However, the fact that I fell straight into deep sleep also implies that I wasn’t fully awake when checking the horizon!
Also, it’s a shock to the system when the odd big wave bangs against the hull, you wake up in an instant, heart thumping and adrenaline hitting your brain just as you get to the companionway expecting to see a huge tanker alongside, only to look at clear open ocean. Not good for your nerves!
Aside from the problems with sleep, the passage went very smoothly with wind mostly from astern. Most of the trip being made with a reefed and prevented mainsail hard against the spreaders (thank god I got the sail patches applied) and either a poled out jib or scrap of over sheeted jib to keep some balance. The Hanse 350 does not like going deep downwind on the Hydrovane with a full mainsail as she eventually rounds up, especially with a swell running, even with the mainsail luffing she continues to sail up into wind. I haven’t tried a full mainsail with poled out genoa yet so this may be the answer.
I spent most days simply absorbing the view and pondering over various trains of thought. I also found myself naked a lot of the time as it was so warm, besides who was going to see me? Thanks to Stu & Rach for ‘The Sailing Companion’, this book kept me company for a while – brilliant! I plotted my position every 6hrs and sent updates to ‘The Ground Crew’ via SatPhone each 0900utc.
All went smoothly until the final 50nm. I would have arrived at night which I hate doing. Also the wind had got up a bit and I was now on a close reach meaning Doris was again starting to slam when going to fast. I decided to reduce sail right down to a bare minimum (2 reefs and a scrap of jib) just to keep her plodding along around 2kn and get some sleep throughout the night.
Upon waking up from a 30 minute nap, around 30nm from landfall I was greeted by the sight of two cruise liners about 1nm away, one either side of my stern and this was my ‘wake up call’ with no more sleep being possible!
Upon reaching the last mile I watched as a huge squall descended from the mountains. It seemed like an artificial storm and was surreal as the wind went from 10kn to 30+kn in about 30 seconds. Rain pouring down I yanked down the mainsail and secured it with a sail tie before getting the engine on. At least I would have hot water and charged batteries when I arrived.
The squall lasted barely 15 minutes and I was soon just outside the marina. To the left of the marina is a huge beach where there were about five other boats anchored and it didn’t take much to convince me that this was going to be my choice of residence for the next few days.
I dropped the hook into about 4m (under the keel) at the bottom of the tide over sand.
The water is so clear and a deep blue that you can actually see the anchor set! Once anchored, I made myself tidy the boat before crashing out. About an hour after I arrived I recognised another boat just laying anchor to my starboard side which turned out to be Daniel of Luna who had just arrived from Cascais. He swam over and we had a quick chat before agreeing to go ashore the next day to explore.
For some reason I couldn’t relax all day and spent a good amount of time talking to Mr Crute on the phone and getting frustrated with the intermittent Internet access I could sometimes reach from the anchorage. That night I slept like a corpse!
All in all I felt I handled the passage, (my longest yet) quite well. Maintaining control of the boat as conditions required and my confidence has been lifted to a new level. Instead of gunning for landfall as soon as possible I was happy to remain offshore and time my arrival for daylight. It’s actually quite a nice feeling being a few hundred miles out at sea and the view, while a 360 degree seascape, keeps changing all the time. I only saw one pod of either dolphins or small pilot whales (the latter I think) during the whole trip which I thought was strange?
Anyway, we made it and the next stop (aside from Madeira just 30nm away) will be the Canaries (~250nm). I am definitely going to try and purchase an AIS in Madeira or get someone to bring one out when they visit me.
Throughout the passage I took some video footage (no nakedness I promise) of which I might try and make something presentable, once I figure out how.
For some reason I couldn’t relax all day and spent a good amount of time talking to Mr Crute on the phone and getting frustrated with the intermittent Internet access I could sometimes reach from the anchorage. That night I slept like a corpse!
All in all I felt I handled the passage, (my longest yet) quite well. Maintaining control of the boat as conditions required and my confidence has been lifted to a new level. Instead of gunning for landfall as soon as possible I was happy to remain offshore and time my arrival for daylight. It’s actually quite a nice feeling being a few hundred miles out at sea and the view, while a 360 degree seascape, keeps changing all the time. I only saw one pod of either dolphins or small pilot whales (the latter I think) during the whole trip which I thought was strange?
Anyway, we made it and the next stop (aside from Madeira just 30nm away) will be the Canaries (~250nm). I am definitely going to try and purchase an AIS in Madeira or get someone to bring one out when they visit me.
Throughout the passage I took some video footage (no nakedness I promise) of which I might try and make something presentable, once I figure out how.
Saturday, 18 October 2008
We Made it!
Well we made it, I'm still alive and well (no breakages for Doris or me) and anchored just outside Porto Santo harbour.
The island attracts a lot of squally rain clouds but its REALLY hot when the sun is out and the water is a lot warmer (approx 7 deg) than Portugal.
In short my trip was exactly like this with less people and less white teeth.
http://www.apple.com/trailers/disney/morninglight/
Nah - I'll write up more a little later - after a little nap!
Thanks to those who took the time to send me a little SMS message it was appretiated.
And thanks to 'The Ground Crew' - MrCrutey for taking the time to post the updates.
Simon (Boo) & Doris.
The island attracts a lot of squally rain clouds but its REALLY hot when the sun is out and the water is a lot warmer (approx 7 deg) than Portugal.
In short my trip was exactly like this with less people and less white teeth.
http://www.apple.com/trailers/disney/morninglight/
Nah - I'll write up more a little later - after a little nap!
Thanks to those who took the time to send me a little SMS message it was appretiated.
And thanks to 'The Ground Crew' - MrCrutey for taking the time to post the updates.
Simon (Boo) & Doris.
Madeira/ Porto Santo
0900UTC N33 03.55 W16 19.12. Log 435NM.
Anchored after bad squall in last mile. We made it! Sleep Time
Anchored after bad squall in last mile. We made it! Sleep Time
Friday, 17 October 2008
Portugal to Madeira (5)
Crutey proxy post
2100UTC N33 27.85 W15 34.30 LOG 397NM DTW 43NM
Had 20KN + swell 2 reef main + tiny jib to slow down + stop slamming. Will try 2 sleep + arrive in daylight.
2100UTC N33 27.85 W15 34.30 LOG 397NM DTW 43NM
Had 20KN + swell 2 reef main + tiny jib to slow down + stop slamming. Will try 2 sleep + arrive in daylight.
Portugal to Madeira (4)
Cruteyproxy
72HRS 0900UTC N34 00.15 W14 42.20 Log 345NM DTW 97NM
Traded speed 4 sleep at night. Wind F2N. Bat 12V but sun out. Thnx 4 SMS guys. Still sane!
72HRS 0900UTC N34 00.15 W14 42.20 Log 345NM DTW 97NM
Traded speed 4 sleep at night. Wind F2N. Bat 12V but sun out. Thnx 4 SMS guys. Still sane!
Thursday, 16 October 2008
Portugal to Madeira (3)
CruteyProxy
48HRS 0900UTC N35 14.43 W13 03.52 Log 244nm DTW207NM
Sun out but rain clouds. Wind F3N. Breakfast time.
48HRS 0900UTC N35 14.43 W13 03.52 Log 244nm DTW207NM
Sun out but rain clouds. Wind F3N. Breakfast time.
Wednesday, 15 October 2008
Portugal to Madeira (2)
Crutey-Proxy Update.
24H 0900UTC N36 40.29 W11 14.32Log 133NM DTW 329nm
Wind and Sea dropped. Sun Out. All Good.
Boo has asked me to post details on how you can send him messages whilst at sea. He's single-handed on a 5 day crossing so I'm sure he would appreciate news from home and well wishers. Use the form on the following site, with the iridium account number below it:
http://messaging.iridium.com/
To: 881631667012
Please bear in mind that, like Ringo Starr, he may not be able to respond to all messages.
24H 0900UTC N36 40.29 W11 14.32Log 133NM DTW 329nm
Wind and Sea dropped. Sun Out. All Good.
Boo has asked me to post details on how you can send him messages whilst at sea. He's single-handed on a 5 day crossing so I'm sure he would appreciate news from home and well wishers. Use the form on the following site, with the iridium account number below it:
http://messaging.iridium.com/
To: 881631667012
Please bear in mind that, like Ringo Starr, he may not be able to respond to all messages.
Tuesday, 14 October 2008
Portugal to Madeira (1)
Update via Crutey-proxy.
2100UTC N37 10.70 W10 03.52.
Horrible Swell & Wind to 20 Knots.
2100UTC N37 10.70 W10 03.52.
Horrible Swell & Wind to 20 Knots.
Monday, 13 October 2008
Sines (4)
OK last post from Sines, well Portugal for that matter and also last post for a week or so.
Today I said farewell to Dave and he is currently in transit back to Ol Blighty. I have sorted out my insurance which cost me an extra £126, so I am now covered for both Madeira and the Canaries. Diesel has been topped up and the boat cleaned inside with detol to try and prevent the flies from getting comfy.
Still to do:
Top up with water, Hose down the boat as it’s filthy with salt. Call my parents and take a shower. All being well I should be slipping the lines around 4am local time tomorrow morning to head for Porto Santo around 5 days away. I will send brief updates of my position via the Sat Phone using SMS.
See you on the other side…. I hope!
Today I said farewell to Dave and he is currently in transit back to Ol Blighty. I have sorted out my insurance which cost me an extra £126, so I am now covered for both Madeira and the Canaries. Diesel has been topped up and the boat cleaned inside with detol to try and prevent the flies from getting comfy.
Still to do:
Top up with water, Hose down the boat as it’s filthy with salt. Call my parents and take a shower. All being well I should be slipping the lines around 4am local time tomorrow morning to head for Porto Santo around 5 days away. I will send brief updates of my position via the Sat Phone using SMS.
See you on the other side…. I hope!
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