Where is Doris?...

Saturday 4 October 2008

Sudden Change of Plan

OK ..Best laid plans and all that ...
We have decided due to possible approaching weather and the anchorage / marina conditions at Peniche, its going to be best to go straight to Cascais, so another over-nighter 75nm south.

Dave (Brighton) thats only about 20 mins from the airport so better for you as well.

Friday 3 October 2008

Nazare (2)

So what’s been going on in Nazare, well lots of odd jobs around the boat and laundry to start with and a few trips to the beach and around town to see the sights.

Doris in laundry mode.


Me in beach mode ...

Niels - The man behind the lens (usually!)


We did actually manage to blag a lift from a 'man with a van', which saved the walk in to town.

I finally got permanent dedicated gybe preventer lines rigged up so no more using my spinnaker sheets and going forward to rig them, simply clip the outboard end on to the boom and tighten at the rear cleat. I also have a shackle which Bruce helped me splice (he’s a Navy man and splicing is his forte) on to my 30m x 18mm rope. I can now anchor in deeper water if I have to and lay more scope (rope) by hand if bad weather comes in. Not as good as all chain I know but a welcome extra bit of security ‘just in case’.

Since arriving the marina price per night has almost halved due to the 1st October marking the start of the ‘off’ season and in addition it has been blowing like made with winds to 30kn. Hence we have decided to stay and relax a while.

We should be leaving Nazare Saturday morning for a (hopefully) pleasant 25nm cruise down to Peniche. If the weather is light and the winds are from the North I should be able to anchor there. The marina is available if required but I have been warned about the outer pontoons being a nightmare due to the waves caused by the fishing boats. Going by this marina here in Nazare, the marinas are struggling for room due to the large number of boats still heading South despite it being quite late in the year.

Dave from Brighton is flying out on Sunday eve (for 1 week) and arrives around 20:30 local time in Lisbon, so it will probably be quite late before he arrives in Peniche. The general idea is to day sail and travel South (well duh!) via Cascais, Sesimbra and Sines.

Dave will come bearing gifts in the form of my new LED lights, so anchoring will no longer consume approx 20 amps per night!

Updates: Who's doing what and where...
Brian (Timshel), who I met in La Coruna is now in Lagos with his other half onboard and doing well.

Marcus (Veracity) is in Cascais but visiting the U.K shortly to sort some stuff out and possibly do a quick yacht delivery job.

Mark & Amanda (Blush) are still enjoying life in Povoa de Varzim.

Steve (Zanda) is still in Baiona on a conquest (nuff said for now). After having his bike stolen he is also on the war path and thinks he knows who has it. I won’t post the name of the guilty vessel here just in case. Rest assured there will be blood when Steve catches up with him.

Kat has been doing her Day Skipper course in the foulest of UK weather, the last I heard it was Gale Force 8 on the South Coast. Then almost immediately she is on a plane to deliver a 36ft Ketch back from Mallorca to Brighton in 3 weeks! That’s a hardcore trip going the wrong way (weather, current and winds) at the wrong time of year, so mucho respect for that! Kat – be sure to wave as you go past me!

That’s all for now folks …

Tuesday 30 September 2008

Nazare

Well we left the Aviero anchorage slightly earlier than planned as the wind was picking up and Bruce does not have the luxury of an electric windless or even a manual one for that matter.

Yes at seventy years of age he is pulling up his anchor like a real man and getting his hands dirty – rather him than me!

The early departure also meant there was still some tide running and while I made every effort to sail out of Aveiro, the fisherman sitting on my starboard side soon got bored of looking at me sailing on the spot despite my log saying I was doing over 3 knots. With the engine on we made our exit and being in a lazy mood I decided to continue on just the headsail.
The sea state was quite choppy and the wind gave me just over 6 knots of speed with the Hydrovane doing all the work of keeping us on course (240’ from Aviero entrance). Niels and Bruce were some 2 miles in front but I was determined to remain in ‘cruisng mode’.

I took the time to make some sandwiches and coffee and anything else to keep me from getting too involved with the boat. I have made a resolution to take a leaf out of Niels book and not ‘work’ too hard on passage.

Just after dark the following comes over the radio on channel sixteen:

‘Station calling Doris, this is motor yacht Doris on channel 16 over.’
Hmn.. Is someone being funny or pretending to be me? Did I hear that correctly?
I respond with:
‘Station calling yacht Doris, this is sailing yacht Doris (yes I know I should be ‘motor yacht’ but I prefer ‘sailing yacht’ to avoid confusion with commercial shipping which is commonly ‘motor vessel’) receiving on channel sixteen – over.

Nothing. A while later I hear:
Fishing vessel in position a.b.c x.y.z with an amber flashing light and shining a spot light on motor yacht Doris, this is motor yacht Doris on channel sixteen – over.

Long story short, ‘Doris’ called me up a little later and we had an amusing conversation.
‘Sailing Yacht Doris of Brighton this is motor yacht Doris of Poole, are you receiving over? Turns out they are ‘Doris of Poole’ on delivery from Mallorca to the UK.

I was still making decent progress using only the genoa head sail but Niels and Bruce had pulled away further and I thought it was time to make up some ground and get the main sail out. What a disaster that was, the battens got caught in the lazy jack lines in the dark and the boom was swinging like it was possessed in the swell, despite being pulled in quite tight. I had to go forward, clipped in I should add, to re-lower the sail.

I couldn’t handle defeat and after another hour tried again. The fishing boat about 3 miles from me must have wondered what the hell was going on with me having to use a torch to time the pulls on the halyard with the swell and swings of the boom while keeping the boat head to wind. Finally after much shouting and cursing it was up. Memo to self, I need to arrange some way of (re)moving the lazy jacks while at sea, something else to sort out.

By the time I had the main sail up the wind had died almost completely and the swell was causing the sails to back every few waves resulting in a loud ‘bang’ of the canvas inflating. Despite the extra wear on the sails, ropes and rigging the noise quickly makes you furious with anger and frustration. I wish I hadn’t bothered putting the damn main sail up now!

With Niels & Bruce just out of sight in the distance and not being able to sail a decent course I had to resort to using the motor for an hour or so. While the trip had started so well, it had become a real chore especially having to man the helm due to a lack of any auto pilot under motor and I felt really tired despite having about half of a seventy mile passage still to complete.

Another absolute nightmare is the lazy head sail sheets getting caught around the dinghy, I really do not want to tow it, especially when I’m heading into a marina, so it’s the best of a bad job I guess. In all I had to leave the cockpit and go forward on a rolling deck about ten times throughout the night. I figure if I play this game often enough it’s only a matter of time before I go over the guard rails and then the fun begins!

Eventually I found myself falling asleep while standing at the wheel. The same fishing boat that had haunted me all night was at about 250’ and my course of 180’ south kept him on my starboard side. However, several times I awoke to find him dead ahead as for some reason each time I nodded off I turned to the right – weird! Assuming the fishermen aboard were keeping watch (which is doubtful), they would have to assume I was either really lost or pissed!

At this stage there was no other option, I had to get the boat sailing again however slowly and get the Hydrovane steering to try and get some sleep using the faithful kitchen egg timer. This achieved I went below in the warm for fifteen minutes at a time. Me and everything outside of the boat was completely saturated with dew and this should have been an indicator of the conditions to come.

Eventually we reached the approach with very little wind and the thickest fog I’ve ever sailed in. The fog horn could be heard as we got closer and my main worry was that a fast moving fishing boat could appear out of nowhere and run straight through me!

I found Bruce (by luck) in the fog and followed suite getting fenders and ropes ready, I also removed the Hydrovane rudder. It would have been nice to find Niels at this stage as Kairos is fitted with a radar, something Bruce and I do not have the luxury of. Not wanting to leave the helm for too long in the fog, the cockpit was full of ropes I simply didn’t want to spend time tidying. Using the wonderful thing that is GPS I made my way toward the entrance. After nearly ‘T Boning’ a tiny open fishing boat just outside the entrance, I found Bruce just coming into his berth and Niels already ashore. I was allocated the outside hammer head and soon tied up without incident – amen!

The harbour master ‘Captain Mike’ is a real character. He’s been to Madeira and across the pond over thirty times and it’s his way or the highway! Niels got reprimanded for shouting to me as I was coming into berth - ‘there’s only one harbour master here!’

Niels and I were ‘processed’ together. Ships paperwork and passport and journey information was demanded by customs, immigration and the marina.

Immediately Bruce and Niels were discussing laundry and showers etc, but I was completely shattered. While only seventy miles long, this trip had killed me. I managed to post some words & pics for you avid readers and then passed out. Before falling asleep I had the worst case of cramp of my life in both legs and a pounding headache. I guess these are the symptoms of dehydration, so much for my attempts to ‘take it easy’.

I did manage to take a shower and get my laundry done (peer pressure) later in the evening, but it was hard work and I felt like a zombie.

All in all this was not an enjoyable sail compared to others of late and I’m sure it’s the first time I have had to resort to shouting at the boat (she understands I’m telling you!). Just as you think you are starting to get the hang of this sailing lark, you have to think again.

Anyways, I’m still alive and in a new place so not all bad…

Special Thanks

A quick post to say a 'Obregado' to Niels of Kairos, the official 'Team Doris Photagrapher' for all the amazing photographs.

Aveiro

We stayed two nights in the Lexoes anchorage going ashore on the second day. We were sent on a wild goos chase lookinf for a chandlers and walked miles only to find a small place on an industrial like estate that sold a few ‘bits & bobs’. Nothing else to report, we tried to clear into Portugal officially in the marina but they were not interested and said if the police want your details we know where you are. We decided that our (Bruce, Niels & myself) next stop was to be Aveiro.

The pilot guide says of Aveiro, ‘Windswept channels and logoons inside an ever changing entrance’, not exactly the kind of place I like to hang out. However, it does reduce the next hop by over thirty miles and with no other options for anchoring either side of Aveiro we decided to go for it.

To be honest, I am trying to stall and kill time as (Brighton) Dave is arriving next week and if I don’t slow down I will have left Portugal before he arrives.

Anchors were lifted at 0600 utc, just as it was getting light with a healthy wind blowing. It seems that on the western Portuguese coast at least, it blows its boots off every morning and afternoon with very little wind during the day. This is probably due to the land & sea breeze formed by the cooling and heating of the land each day, offshore in the morning and then onshore in the evening.

Anyway on getting clear of the Lexoes breakwater to my astonishment I was being called by name ‘Doris’ on channel sixteen and I knew the voice wasn’t Niels or Bruce. On the horizon I could just make out the shape of an old Lugger, it was Marcus.



The day past with me mostly miles out to sea away from the other group and with very little wind all day I got to play with different sail arrangements and the Hydrovane. The Asymmetric Spinnaker made an appearance until I got tired of manning the helm and hunger forced me to play with a poled out Genoa Wing N Wing style.

Niels spent the day fishing catching plenty of Mackerel for dinner. Bruce sailed all day only finding time to consume three ginger nuts! Due to the lack of wind we arrived about 2 hours later than planned and the ebbing tidal flow had started to pour out of the Aveiro entrance.


I downed my sails and made my way under motor to the anchorage, however, the others were another hour behind. I later heard that Bruce had to pull out his headsail as his single cylinder engine could barely power him forward against the now 3 knots of outgoing tide.

Marcus tried to sail Veracity (due to not having a proper motor) up the entrance only to be nearly swept onto the rocks. Luckily, a RIB towed him clear into a small bay where he dropped anchor not being able to go any further. Later conversations with him over the VHF had him saying that he really needed to consider his options and maybe get an engine fitted in Cascais.

There was also talk about going back to the UK, so watch this space. I should hook up with Marcus in Cascais and will then know what his future plans are.

The anchorage was very busy and I made about five passes trying to find a decent depth of water with one aborted attempt to get the anchor in as I would ended up too close to another boat. After the Camarinas cock-up I always try and stay well away from everyone if possible.
Finally, I anchored in 3.6m of water (not including the 2.5m offset) of which about 2m was tide. I was a little worried about the depth due to the swell caused by the large commercial traffic and motorboats roaring past the anchorage.

Opposite me in the anchorage was Laurie a guy I met in Baiona who is on his way back to Oz with his wife, so he came over in his dinghy and we chatted over a beer before Niels and Bruce turned up. Bruce and I spent the evening aboard Niels boat generally relaxing and discussing the sail and what we will do next.

Not much else to report, accept that we still haven’t officially cleared ourselves into the country yet and with the police taking all the names of the boats in the anchorage, can only hope we do not get reprimanded accordingly. OK I can handle a ‘telling off’ but I do not want get fined!

We plan to stay here in Aveiro for a day before heading to Nazare, which is a night passage of about 75nm to get there for Tuesday morning.

Stay tuned…

Lexoes Portugal

A quick motor out past the breakwater and then it was ‘downhill’ sailing in about 10 knots of wind off the quarter. Niels had rebuilt his boom incorrectly meaning he could not fully raise the full main sail (1 reef) and Bruce’s classic line after we had been purely sailing for the last hour ‘Shall we turn off the motors now?’.

Doris really struggled to go slow enough to stay with Bruce and Niels even with a reefed main sail and a scrap of head sail and soon all I could see were two distant tricolors on the horizon. Instead of staying inshore and struggling to keep the boat moving in the dying winds I chose to go offshore. Firstly because of my morbid fear of lobster pots, secondly because there seemed to be a lot of shipping close in and lastly, because I was on the phone to Crutey for about an hour and it’s hard to change direction and trim sails with one hand in the dark while on the phone.

The night went smooth enough and I was escorted throughout the night by dolphins, with their luminous phospherous wake streaming out from behind them.

I struggled to stay awake a lot of the time but there was too much shipping and fishing boats to sleep. I did get the kitchen timer out once it was light for the final twenty or so miles and managed to get some sleep, but not enough. I am going to have to change my ways and ‘relax’ when doing night passages alone. I started the trip wearing nothing but a pair of shorts but ended up in full ‘foulies’ and frozen! It’s not possible to sit out in the wind (behind the wheel) all night and not get cold or hypothermic and remain functional.
I wish I had a tiller then I could just live under the sprayhood. I should be getting more sleep and either use the sprayhood more or just check the horizons before going below in the warm. I guess it depends on who and what is about in the water around you, didn’t mind sleeping during Biscay and I think I’ll be fine once properly offshore, which will next be the Madera crossing.

I do have a confession to breaking my own rule as well which scared the shizzle out of me! I usually only rig preventers as and when needed and I have a single line which I use and swap it from side to side as required. Normally when I have a preventer fitted I am on the same tack for hours and hours so not a problem. However, last night when I went forward to rig it, I couldn’t stay clipped in due to the dinghy straps and rather than spend the extra few minutes negotiating the safety line I ‘risked’ it. Just as I was threading the line through the forward cleat, the boat dropped off of a small wave and my foot slipped off the toe rail and through the guard rail. For a second I was hanging by my armpit on the guard rails. It wasn’t until I got back to the safety of the cockpit that it dawned on me, the impact of what nearly happened. It was pitch black and I was wearing a life jacket but I would have been almost (if not) dead by the morning! To be honest, even the thought of going over while tied on with the boat going at speed is scary enough!
I need to rig permanent preventers which are ready to go from the cockpit and think of some solution for safety lines with the dinghy and genoa pole on deck… more things to think about.

On a brighter note, the motor was only required for the first hour of sailing (departure from Baiona) and then the final (5 miles) approach into Lexoes. The winds picked up to 25+ knots and the sea was ‘all over the place’, I guess I could have sailed it, but knowing the batteries needed some juice (I was down to 11.4v), didn’t feel too bad about spending about two hours motor sailing, besides I was knackered and wanted to sleep.

Initially I was worried about anchoring with such strong winds blowing, the approach had been fun and games trying to get the main sail down with the wind blowing me in circles, however, once inside things calmed down.

The anchor was down and the new Portuguese flag flying by 1100 utc. My god its hot here!

Despite the wind, it’s like a furnace, for the first time ever I couldn’t stand bare foot on the teak! Eventually Bruce and Niels arrived an hour or so later. Niels has a long list of repairs and we may be spending a few days here.

Aside from the boom problems, Niels also had his autopilot pack up just as we left and a Low Oil Pressure alarm go off en route which he said was mildly entertaining!

I spent the evening eating soup, chatting to Niels and thinking about what to do and where to go next. We should have gone ashore to ‘clear in’, as it’s a new country but we couldn’t be bothered. We’ll go ashore tomorrow and have a mooch around and Niels can complete his repairs.

Baiona (5)

This is the last Baiona post I promise! OK so whats happened since you last tuned in? … Well we Niels helped me get Doris up to scratch again with the following repairs completed:

New Genoa Pole end fitted. We also re-riveted the Genoa pole eye on the mast
Boom fitting drilled out and moved to the end of the boom for use as a back up mainsheet / Gybe preventer attachment
Re-put together my anchor ball as someone pointed out as it spins it looks like a black cross I had hung it sideways – doh!
Todo: Splice my new 30m x 18mm anchor warp into my chain.

On Tuesday eve we all got together for Lindsay’s farewell party, as she is returning to England to complete her working contract. She has six weeks of boating to look forward to in the UK winter. I cooked a curry to which Steve donated the chicken. No Corned Beef curries for him as his bodies a temple. Bruce the Almighty made a fruit cocktail and supplied wine. Marcus and Lindsay donated Squid rings and Moules in Red Wine & Garlic. They had spent the afternoon ‘harvesting’ the mussels from the rocks so this was as fresh as its gonna get!

Now those that know me, know my golden rule: “Thou Shall Not Eat Bottom Dwellers!”
However, as it was a special occasion I thought it only right that I make the effort. So, what’s the verdict. After hearing everyone go on about how amazing real sea food is when fresh etc. I have no clue what they are on about. Sure the Mussels tasted nice enough, who doesn’t like Red wine & Garlic, a classic combo, but it’s like chewing a huge bogey! And squid rings, again nice enough taste, but the texture of rubber with string in the middle!

Needless to say the guitars made an appearance with the tune de soir, “I’m leaving on a jet plane” for Lindsay.

The next day Lindsay & Marcus set sail to Vigo (Airport) and after saying goodbye to Steve, myself, Bruce and Niels up’ed anchor for Portugal at 5pm local time.