So what’s been going on …Well not much in the way of sailing stuff to be honest, mostly socialising. Let’s see, highlights of the last week or so have been:
A late night ‘get together’ on Lista Light where much Rum was drunk and many a bad song was sung. Marcus & I on guitar, Jess on flute, Freya on Percussion and Penny whistle. Everyone on vocals – my apologies to the rest of the anchorage!
A huge BBQ on Freemans Beach where we built a huge fire, found a grill and made a beer cooler and everyone got to play with machetes. All in all there must have been around 25 people, many of whom I had never met before.
Going to the Sunday night ‘Jam Session’ at the local bar. We (the usual suspects – James, Freya, Marcus, Marcus & Jess and I) were joined by Emily, Dave & Katherine of Lista Light where I think I shocked everyone with my ‘moves’ on the dance floor. Jeez – I can’t even remember the last time I danced, probably in Las Vegas in a previous life! I did get ‘Hit On’ by a scary German doris much to the amusement of everyone…
Anyways, the ‘house band’ is pretty well versed in ‘their’ songs so it’s quite hard to join in but I did manage to end up playing the Tom-tom drums. We have all vowed to learn at least one song all together and perform it on stage before we leave Antigua! I might even grab a guitar this Sunday and have a bash …
With time on my hands I have made the effort to learn some new songs on the guitar and find myself going through a David Gray, Tracy Chapman & Bob Marley phase songs on the ‘hit list’ are:
DG - Babylon, Sail Away, This Years Love, Say Hello Wave Goodbye
TC – Baby Can I hold You, Talkin About A Revolution, Fast Car, For My Lover
BM – 3 Little Birds, Redemtion Song, Is This Love, Jammin, No Woman No Cry
Being that nobody ever knows ALL the words to a song I have decided to learn to sing them as well at least well enough to carry everyone else – God Help everyone!
I have been helping Freya paint Otahi and we have been doing lots of work on Veracity to get her ready for Classics. Replacing Halyards, installing DeadEyes, removing superfluous rigging, painting etc. We intend to do a few evening practice sails this weekend. Our only remaining dilemma is the ‘costume’ and Freya & Jess having the time to ‘run up’ 8 outfits!
With my windows now secure (thanks again Sym), my only outstanding ‘chore’ is the state of Doris’ bottom. The AntiFoul from new has, understandably, worn ‘thin’ (understatement) and these Caribbean waters are alive! The situation is not helped by the fact that I am now at anchor. Research into local prices means that I am going to have to spend around £1000 - £1500 on paint (£250 / tin!!! @ ~3 tins) & haul out (~£500 including pressure wash & chocking etc) if I do it here in the Caribbean. The local Slipway quoted me over $2100USD!!!! - Not worth it, considering I am only going to be here until May and then return to the UK, probably lifting her as soon as I arrive to go on a Sales hard standing.
So the plan is to clean her by diving as best as I can now, have a ‘Bottom Scrubbing Party’ just before I leave and then once underway, the growth should slow down. I can always have another scrub in the Azores and the water will be cooler, again slowing down the growth – I hope! I may try Crutey’s idea of buying a length of hose to attach to my snorkel …
Anyone reading this and considering setting off on a similar trip – Buy as much from the UK as you can, I would advise a mini chandlery and ASDA in your own boat!
So … that’s me (us). I will at some point do the tourist thing.
Watch this space for another (none) exciting episode!
Friday, 3 April 2009
Wednesday, 25 March 2009
Playing At Pirates
Today (Weds 25th) James, Freya, Marcus, Jess and two new friends (Swedish) Marcus and Vince, had our first ‘practice’ sail in Veracity a traditional Cornish Dipping Lugger that we intend to race here in Antigua during Classics Week. What an experience! I can only admire Marcus for Single Handing this beast for several years out of the river Dart, albeit without an engine!
As our first outing, the aim was to basically learn how to sail her and what a steep learning curve it was. The two masts are made from telegraph poles, there are no winches as its all block & tackle and the sails are either lashed to spars (logs) or free flying and being in the wrong place at the wrong time can be painful! Despite Veracity being very 'low tech' she is extremely powerful and we were surging along in the 15kn winds close hauled at over 6.5kn!
Our first attempts at Tacking and Gybing (Dipping the Lug) can best be described as organized chaos, but at least we got the idea of what is involved. Interestingly, our fastest tack was when aborting an approach into a shallow rocky reef pass into Indian Creek for lunch which left us on a lee shore – funny that!
The highlight of the day was sailing back into the anchorage where we had left a small raft of dinghies. Despite the headwinds and flukey windshifts we slowly sailed our way through the many boats that fill the small bay that is English Harbour. All the other boat owners came up on deck with a nervous look in their eyes, not helped by Marcus’ comments such as ‘Is your Insurance up to date?’ Little did they know that the ignition was ‘on’ for the electric motor that Veracity now carries… sneaky!
All in all a great day with lots learnt. Now we simply have to practice, practice and then practice again before Classics. Even if we don’t win any races there’s always the fancy dress competition!
As our first outing, the aim was to basically learn how to sail her and what a steep learning curve it was. The two masts are made from telegraph poles, there are no winches as its all block & tackle and the sails are either lashed to spars (logs) or free flying and being in the wrong place at the wrong time can be painful! Despite Veracity being very 'low tech' she is extremely powerful and we were surging along in the 15kn winds close hauled at over 6.5kn!
Our first attempts at Tacking and Gybing (Dipping the Lug) can best be described as organized chaos, but at least we got the idea of what is involved. Interestingly, our fastest tack was when aborting an approach into a shallow rocky reef pass into Indian Creek for lunch which left us on a lee shore – funny that!
The highlight of the day was sailing back into the anchorage where we had left a small raft of dinghies. Despite the headwinds and flukey windshifts we slowly sailed our way through the many boats that fill the small bay that is English Harbour. All the other boat owners came up on deck with a nervous look in their eyes, not helped by Marcus’ comments such as ‘Is your Insurance up to date?’ Little did they know that the ignition was ‘on’ for the electric motor that Veracity now carries… sneaky!
All in all a great day with lots learnt. Now we simply have to practice, practice and then practice again before Classics. Even if we don’t win any races there’s always the fancy dress competition!
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
Doris 4 Sale
Yup it’s true I am selling Doris! Despite being an amazing boat both in terms of looks and sailing ability, I have decided that while she is everything I ever wanted in a boat she does not reflect the person I have become.
Her sleek racy lines and sophisticated hull colours are a reflection (I like to think) of who I used to be in a previous life. She no longer represents the scruffy looking ‘Sea Pikey’ that is constantly in search of unguarded water taps and does his washing up off the back of the boat in sea water. It's not right that other people stare at me as I approach Doris in the anchorage as if I am about to steal her - How can 'he' look like that and own that boat?!?!
It really does break my heart to think about saying ‘gbye’ to her after all this time, so many miles and all the times she literally took care of me at sea (she got a complete novice with no previous sailing experience across Biscay, Europe and the Atlantic single handed after all). However, as of today she is on the market and looking for a loving new owner.
So what boat should I be sailing these days? Well I have fallen in love with old boats and despite no previous experience (nothing new there), I find myself drawn to Gaff rigs. Therefore, at this point in time I am looking for a old Gaff Cutter in Steel.
Anyway, despite her full history, lots of information and pictures all posted here, if anyone is interested in buying Doris and wants a full inventory or equipment specs just drop me a line via email.
It’s a sad day….
Her sleek racy lines and sophisticated hull colours are a reflection (I like to think) of who I used to be in a previous life. She no longer represents the scruffy looking ‘Sea Pikey’ that is constantly in search of unguarded water taps and does his washing up off the back of the boat in sea water. It's not right that other people stare at me as I approach Doris in the anchorage as if I am about to steal her - How can 'he' look like that and own that boat?!?!
It really does break my heart to think about saying ‘gbye’ to her after all this time, so many miles and all the times she literally took care of me at sea (she got a complete novice with no previous sailing experience across Biscay, Europe and the Atlantic single handed after all). However, as of today she is on the market and looking for a loving new owner.
So what boat should I be sailing these days? Well I have fallen in love with old boats and despite no previous experience (nothing new there), I find myself drawn to Gaff rigs. Therefore, at this point in time I am looking for a old Gaff Cutter in Steel.
Anyway, despite her full history, lots of information and pictures all posted here, if anyone is interested in buying Doris and wants a full inventory or equipment specs just drop me a line via email.
It’s a sad day….
Saturday, 21 March 2009
English Harbour, Antigua
Not much to report....
I am still in English Harbour and there are Dolphins and Turtles regularly swimming around the boat. Its getting hotter by the day and the Mozzies are eating me alive!
I have been doing small odd jobs around the boat such as splicing and getting the stainless looking 'happy' again. I really need to get her Hauled Out and AntiFouled but costs here in Antigua are astronimical ~ $1000US. We (James, Marcus and I) discussed the possibilities of Careening (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Careening) her until I get back to the UK.
Not sure if I am pushing the boundaries of being a Sea Pikey too far on this one... !?!?
Likewise, the costs of water is listed here as $0.50USD / Gal. I carry 360 litres, which at ~4lt / Gal - means its gonna cost me not far short of £50 quid! - The search for an unguarded tap is on!
I have also decided that providing I can find a Sextant for a decent price, I want to try and use only Astro (Sun, Planets & Stars) Navigation for the sail back to the UK (or at least the Azores). I also need to photocopy a suitable passage planning chart(s) from someone as I refuse to pay ~£40 for a single paper chart!
Thank God there is a FREE WIFI connection here, I am going to be 'resident' for a while so expect a lot more posts...
I am still in English Harbour and there are Dolphins and Turtles regularly swimming around the boat. Its getting hotter by the day and the Mozzies are eating me alive!
I have been doing small odd jobs around the boat such as splicing and getting the stainless looking 'happy' again. I really need to get her Hauled Out and AntiFouled but costs here in Antigua are astronimical ~ $1000US. We (James, Marcus and I) discussed the possibilities of Careening (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Careening) her until I get back to the UK.
Not sure if I am pushing the boundaries of being a Sea Pikey too far on this one... !?!?
Likewise, the costs of water is listed here as $0.50USD / Gal. I carry 360 litres, which at ~4lt / Gal - means its gonna cost me not far short of £50 quid! - The search for an unguarded tap is on!
I have also decided that providing I can find a Sextant for a decent price, I want to try and use only Astro (Sun, Planets & Stars) Navigation for the sail back to the UK (or at least the Azores). I also need to photocopy a suitable passage planning chart(s) from someone as I refuse to pay ~£40 for a single paper chart!
Thank God there is a FREE WIFI connection here, I am going to be 'resident' for a while so expect a lot more posts...
Wednesday, 18 March 2009
Martinique - Dominica - Antigua
Well, whats been going on lately? Well Quatermoon (Sym & Amy) Kindly agreed to sail to Martinique with us (Kat & I) to finally get my windows all fixed (after they began falling out across the Atlantic) as this is the only place we could find the required SikaFlex 295 UV silicon adhesive.
We were anchored in Le Marin for about 6 days in all as the windows were a complete nightmare to remove and we ended up having to use guitar strings (primarily the B string if anyone is interested) to cut through the original silicon. On a positive note, we did get to spend some amazing nights with Sym & Amy – once again proving they are second to none when it comes to hospitality!!!
It looks like the UV primer failed causing the windows the ‘delaminate’ from their bond with the coach roof. This is apparently a known problem with Hanse yachts in warm climates. Fortunately, Hanse have been superb in handling the fault and covered the cost of getting them fixed. Any other Hanse owners having to rectify the same problem, I would suggest that you arrange for new windows and simply smash out the originals as this will save you the pain of cutting them out inch by inch using steel wire as we did.
It’s amazing that we didn’t cause more damage to the window frames, wooden surrounds or the glass itself, a testament to Sym’s workmanship and diligence. If anyone requires any boat maintenance done while in the Caribbean don’t hesitate to get in contact with Sym on Quatermoon. Sym can be contacted via their blogspot.
With the work on the windows finally complete (thank god) and the water quality in Le Marin being poor for swimming, we decided to spend a day in in St Annes anchorage (just outside Le Marin). We spent the evening aboard Quatermoon having a BBQ and fishing.
The next day, I finished a few minor jobs on Doris, changed the Genoa for the Self Tacking Jib, tightened the rigging (Intermediates and lowers - again) and spliced 20m of 16mm warp onto my anchor chain so it can pass through the windlass, no more manual ‘faffing’ around joining warp to chain manually. With my new waterproof windows and other jobs complete, we could finally think about the beat north and with only a few days remaining we had to get to Antigua for Kat to catch her flight home.
We said a final farewell to Sym & Amy and set sail for Dominica (~80nm). Good luck guys and thanks for every thing! Keep me posted with your plans etc. Sym if you need any help building the Cat – gimme a shout!
The sail went smoothly with no major problems but we did have a choppy sea state and squally conditions. I had to use the 3rd reef a few times to ensure a bearable ride across the Martinique – Dominica channel. Upon reaching the lee of Dominica the wind dropped off until the engine was required, an excuse to play the stereo loud and help me stay awake after sailing all night.
We arrived at the Portsmouth Bay anchorage around 10am to find Otahi (James & Freya). After a quick ‘Hi & Gbye’ while we dropped the hook, they headed off on a days excursion around the island leaving Kat and I to get some sleep.
Our original plan was to snatch a few hours sleep before setting straight off for Antigua, but soon decided to stay overnight and leave late morning the next day. That afternoon James & Freya came over bringing Rum and fresh coconuts from their excursion and we caught up on what’s been going on etc. They too were leaving the next morning for Antigua.
The next morning we woke up early and went ashore with Freya to avoid having to blow up the dinghy. I had to buy a Machete (everyone else has) or Cutlass as they are known locally – each (I bought two) costing $20ec (about £5). I also purchased a whole bunch (as in off the tree – about 30) of Bananas and some other supplies. On our return to Doris, Otahi set sail about an hour ahead of us while Kat and I made ready. Kat doing the huge pile of washing up and me cleaning the Bananas in dilute bleach to kill any nasties such as Cockroach eggs that I might bring aboard.
After cleaning off a ton of weed from the anchor chain we were soon playing ‘catch up’ with Otahi. It’s a shame that we didn’t have more time to spend in Dominica as it looks amazing and the people seem really friendly. The whole place had a good vibe. Unfortunately, due to the windows taking a lot longer to fix than we anticipated we have to push on to Antigua.
Caribbean sailing can be summarized as:
Fluky wind shifts around the island headlands – beware of accidental gybes.
No wind close inshore in the lee of the land – but beware of squalls coming down the mountains as they travel fast.
Wind acceleration and steep swell in the channels between the islands – reef early before entering the channels.
Upon reaching the north of Guadeloupe we had witnessed all of the above and just as the winds were rising again (25kn) the jib furler decided to jam. With the steep swell (1.5m) in the channel and the rising winds it was exciting stuff as I held on for dear life on the rising and falling bow, trying to free the furling line that had buried itself under pressure of sailing with the sail reefed.
I ‘hove to’ with the mainsheet loosened and the wheel hard over to weather and the jib flogging. After nearly an hour I managed to unthread and rewind the furling line enough to get the sail refurled. Unfortunately the flogging caused the Lewmar block on the Self Tacking traveler to fail so I rigged it using a single block at the traveler and tied the end of the sheet to the clew. This works fine but is harder to sheet in but a lot easier to furl. While I was wrestling the furling gear, Kat made her first call to ‘none friends’ using the VHF. A cruise liner was passing a little too close for comfort on our starboard side and Kat made sure he knew we were not making way and to give us a wide berth while we sorted out our problems. Not ‘our’ problems you understand, that’s going to take a lot longer!
We finally got underway again and the seas got bigger and bigger (3m) as we entered the Guadaloupe – Antigua channel. We were making a bearable 4-5kts under 2nd reefed mainsail and ½ jib but every now and again the boat would launch itself of off the crest of a wave resulting in a horrendous sounding slam. I also needed to get an hours sleep feeling exhausted after sorting out the headsail. I reefed right down (3rd reef mainsail and 1/3 jib) and things got a lot more gentle as we ploughed on at about 3kts). After about an hour and a half I awoke to find it just getting light and Kat singing and dancing in the cockpit. A year ago in Brighton the same condition would have her in tears!
The winds had dropped off slightly and I went back to the 2nd reef and we continued pointing as high as we could in order to hit our intended destination of English Harbour. Not much else to report on this passage except that the boat pretty much took care of us and sailed herself flawlessly. We ended up with about 5nm of XTE (down wind) and this last 5 miles seemed to take forever! I tried to tack several times but soon had the engine on and motor-sailed into the relentless steep swell.
Approaching Falmouth and English Harbour was like a weekend in the Solent with yachts everywhere! We made our approach wide to avoid a race and finally entered the Pillars of Hercules to get the mainsail down. Otahi had called us a few hours before explaining that the anchorage was ‘tight’ and that it had taken them six attempts to get the anchor to bite avoiding rock.
After trying several likely looking areas, we finally settled on a spot right next to Otahi, a little too close for comfort (they are made of steel and Doris is ‘plastic) but we were too tired to care.
We tidied the boat and pumped up the dinghy before hoping over to Otahi for coffee and scones – all very civilized. Marcus (of Veracity fame) had come over as well and we grilled him on his latest and greatest. He has been in Antigua for some time and is working and has almost become a ‘local’.
With Kat flying home the next day, we decided to decline the invite for food on Veracity that evening and spend the evening together. We went ashore after a short sleep and found a Pizza place for dinner. We ate until we couldn’t breathe and then tiredness kicked in so it was back to the boat for an early night.
We woke up and Kat sorted out all her packing before we went ashore to officially ‘check in’. What can I say. Antigua has the most long winded pointless bureaucratic system I have ever had the misfortune of witnessing. Not to mention the asshole behind the desk who can barely be bothered to talk. I am sorry Sir could you mumble that again please?!?!?
With formalities complete and Kat removed from the ‘Doris Crew List’, James, Freya, Kat and I went for a bite to eat. By this time it was just after midday and Kat had arranged for a taxi to the airport at 3pm. There was just enough time to get her last minute stuff packed and before I knew it I was giving her a hug and saying farewell. Kat thanks for making my trip to the Caribbean so amazing it wouldn’t compare if you hadn’t been around for the last 2 months to share it with me.
The time is now 6pm and Kat has been gone 3 hours and it’s only just occurred to me that I haven’t been alone in the Caribbean before.
So … Once again Doris is Single Handed and it’s going to be a long month ahead while I wait for May to begin my passage back across the Atlantic.
Anyways, you guys are now bang up to date!
We were anchored in Le Marin for about 6 days in all as the windows were a complete nightmare to remove and we ended up having to use guitar strings (primarily the B string if anyone is interested) to cut through the original silicon. On a positive note, we did get to spend some amazing nights with Sym & Amy – once again proving they are second to none when it comes to hospitality!!!
It looks like the UV primer failed causing the windows the ‘delaminate’ from their bond with the coach roof. This is apparently a known problem with Hanse yachts in warm climates. Fortunately, Hanse have been superb in handling the fault and covered the cost of getting them fixed. Any other Hanse owners having to rectify the same problem, I would suggest that you arrange for new windows and simply smash out the originals as this will save you the pain of cutting them out inch by inch using steel wire as we did.
It’s amazing that we didn’t cause more damage to the window frames, wooden surrounds or the glass itself, a testament to Sym’s workmanship and diligence. If anyone requires any boat maintenance done while in the Caribbean don’t hesitate to get in contact with Sym on Quatermoon. Sym can be contacted via their blogspot.
With the work on the windows finally complete (thank god) and the water quality in Le Marin being poor for swimming, we decided to spend a day in in St Annes anchorage (just outside Le Marin). We spent the evening aboard Quatermoon having a BBQ and fishing.
The next day, I finished a few minor jobs on Doris, changed the Genoa for the Self Tacking Jib, tightened the rigging (Intermediates and lowers - again) and spliced 20m of 16mm warp onto my anchor chain so it can pass through the windlass, no more manual ‘faffing’ around joining warp to chain manually. With my new waterproof windows and other jobs complete, we could finally think about the beat north and with only a few days remaining we had to get to Antigua for Kat to catch her flight home.
We said a final farewell to Sym & Amy and set sail for Dominica (~80nm). Good luck guys and thanks for every thing! Keep me posted with your plans etc. Sym if you need any help building the Cat – gimme a shout!
The sail went smoothly with no major problems but we did have a choppy sea state and squally conditions. I had to use the 3rd reef a few times to ensure a bearable ride across the Martinique – Dominica channel. Upon reaching the lee of Dominica the wind dropped off until the engine was required, an excuse to play the stereo loud and help me stay awake after sailing all night.
We arrived at the Portsmouth Bay anchorage around 10am to find Otahi (James & Freya). After a quick ‘Hi & Gbye’ while we dropped the hook, they headed off on a days excursion around the island leaving Kat and I to get some sleep.
Our original plan was to snatch a few hours sleep before setting straight off for Antigua, but soon decided to stay overnight and leave late morning the next day. That afternoon James & Freya came over bringing Rum and fresh coconuts from their excursion and we caught up on what’s been going on etc. They too were leaving the next morning for Antigua.
The next morning we woke up early and went ashore with Freya to avoid having to blow up the dinghy. I had to buy a Machete (everyone else has) or Cutlass as they are known locally – each (I bought two) costing $20ec (about £5). I also purchased a whole bunch (as in off the tree – about 30) of Bananas and some other supplies. On our return to Doris, Otahi set sail about an hour ahead of us while Kat and I made ready. Kat doing the huge pile of washing up and me cleaning the Bananas in dilute bleach to kill any nasties such as Cockroach eggs that I might bring aboard.
After cleaning off a ton of weed from the anchor chain we were soon playing ‘catch up’ with Otahi. It’s a shame that we didn’t have more time to spend in Dominica as it looks amazing and the people seem really friendly. The whole place had a good vibe. Unfortunately, due to the windows taking a lot longer to fix than we anticipated we have to push on to Antigua.
Caribbean sailing can be summarized as:
Fluky wind shifts around the island headlands – beware of accidental gybes.
No wind close inshore in the lee of the land – but beware of squalls coming down the mountains as they travel fast.
Wind acceleration and steep swell in the channels between the islands – reef early before entering the channels.
Upon reaching the north of Guadeloupe we had witnessed all of the above and just as the winds were rising again (25kn) the jib furler decided to jam. With the steep swell (1.5m) in the channel and the rising winds it was exciting stuff as I held on for dear life on the rising and falling bow, trying to free the furling line that had buried itself under pressure of sailing with the sail reefed.
I ‘hove to’ with the mainsheet loosened and the wheel hard over to weather and the jib flogging. After nearly an hour I managed to unthread and rewind the furling line enough to get the sail refurled. Unfortunately the flogging caused the Lewmar block on the Self Tacking traveler to fail so I rigged it using a single block at the traveler and tied the end of the sheet to the clew. This works fine but is harder to sheet in but a lot easier to furl. While I was wrestling the furling gear, Kat made her first call to ‘none friends’ using the VHF. A cruise liner was passing a little too close for comfort on our starboard side and Kat made sure he knew we were not making way and to give us a wide berth while we sorted out our problems. Not ‘our’ problems you understand, that’s going to take a lot longer!
We finally got underway again and the seas got bigger and bigger (3m) as we entered the Guadaloupe – Antigua channel. We were making a bearable 4-5kts under 2nd reefed mainsail and ½ jib but every now and again the boat would launch itself of off the crest of a wave resulting in a horrendous sounding slam. I also needed to get an hours sleep feeling exhausted after sorting out the headsail. I reefed right down (3rd reef mainsail and 1/3 jib) and things got a lot more gentle as we ploughed on at about 3kts). After about an hour and a half I awoke to find it just getting light and Kat singing and dancing in the cockpit. A year ago in Brighton the same condition would have her in tears!
The winds had dropped off slightly and I went back to the 2nd reef and we continued pointing as high as we could in order to hit our intended destination of English Harbour. Not much else to report on this passage except that the boat pretty much took care of us and sailed herself flawlessly. We ended up with about 5nm of XTE (down wind) and this last 5 miles seemed to take forever! I tried to tack several times but soon had the engine on and motor-sailed into the relentless steep swell.
Approaching Falmouth and English Harbour was like a weekend in the Solent with yachts everywhere! We made our approach wide to avoid a race and finally entered the Pillars of Hercules to get the mainsail down. Otahi had called us a few hours before explaining that the anchorage was ‘tight’ and that it had taken them six attempts to get the anchor to bite avoiding rock.
After trying several likely looking areas, we finally settled on a spot right next to Otahi, a little too close for comfort (they are made of steel and Doris is ‘plastic) but we were too tired to care.
We tidied the boat and pumped up the dinghy before hoping over to Otahi for coffee and scones – all very civilized. Marcus (of Veracity fame) had come over as well and we grilled him on his latest and greatest. He has been in Antigua for some time and is working and has almost become a ‘local’.
With Kat flying home the next day, we decided to decline the invite for food on Veracity that evening and spend the evening together. We went ashore after a short sleep and found a Pizza place for dinner. We ate until we couldn’t breathe and then tiredness kicked in so it was back to the boat for an early night.
We woke up and Kat sorted out all her packing before we went ashore to officially ‘check in’. What can I say. Antigua has the most long winded pointless bureaucratic system I have ever had the misfortune of witnessing. Not to mention the asshole behind the desk who can barely be bothered to talk. I am sorry Sir could you mumble that again please?!?!?
With formalities complete and Kat removed from the ‘Doris Crew List’, James, Freya, Kat and I went for a bite to eat. By this time it was just after midday and Kat had arranged for a taxi to the airport at 3pm. There was just enough time to get her last minute stuff packed and before I knew it I was giving her a hug and saying farewell. Kat thanks for making my trip to the Caribbean so amazing it wouldn’t compare if you hadn’t been around for the last 2 months to share it with me.
The time is now 6pm and Kat has been gone 3 hours and it’s only just occurred to me that I haven’t been alone in the Caribbean before.
So … Once again Doris is Single Handed and it’s going to be a long month ahead while I wait for May to begin my passage back across the Atlantic.
Anyways, you guys are now bang up to date!
Wednesday, 18 February 2009
Back in Rodney Bay, St Lucia
It was a pleasant sail until becoming becalmed just off the south coast of St Vincent. Half way up the west coast we were called up by Otahi (about 3 miles ahead of us) on the radio. It turns out that they had a bit of a nightmare experience with the local boat boys and got hassled to the point of not wanting to stay in the Wallilibou anchorage and had decided to carry on to St Lucia.
After using the engine for about an hour the wind filled in and we resumed sailing, we could just make out Otahi on the distant horizon. Just after dark we drew level with them and then slowly pulled away throughout the night as Doris (being modern) points a lot higher than Otahi.
We arrived at Rodney Bay just as it was getting light, dropped anchor and after failing to make contact with Otahi, climbed into bed. After a few hours sleep we woke up around midday and decided to re-anchor closer to shore nearer Otahi who had arrived while we were sleeping.
Just after setting the anchor, I decided to dive on the anchor and found I had dropped it over an underwater cliff edge about 25ft high and while it was holding, would not be suitable for a longer term stay. While on deck I saw a familiar sight approaching. It was Aliisa (Lauri & Annina) who had arrived after sailing south from Martinique. We invited them over for ‘breakfast pancakes’ and were soon also joined by James & Freya. Once again Doris was a hive of activity with Kat doing the business with the Pancakes our staple breakfast for the last month or so.
Finally as everyone had vacated and just as it was getting dark we decided to re-anchor (something we should have done a lot sooner). After failing (3 times) to get the anchor to set on the rock and coral bottom, and with ever increasing winds, we finally had to settle on anchoring well offshore away from other boats just incase she pulled during the night.
With me not wanting to leave the boat, Kat was feeling trapped and had ‘Cabin Fever’, compounded by the fact that she was not confident enough to use the dinghy at night in the strong winds on her own. After a heated argument, James & Freya came over to visit and we had a Rum fueled ‘Therapy Session’ with James playing safe and staying very quiet!
The next morning we decided to go into the marina so Kat could see her friends and go ashore easily. After a botched mooring we were all tied up and back where I started – Rodney Bay marina. With the winds howling we decided to stay in the marina for three nights, however this led to another two nights due to being in no state to move the boat after a heavy night on Aliisa and another night of ‘Jump Up’ and also deciding to help Matti get Carma boxed for shipping back to Sweden.
The following day, Otahi set off heading for Martinique and Aliisa left us for the final time to continue their trip around the world. Otahi – See you guys soon! Aliisa - Good luck and see you on the flip side!
It’s now Sunday 1st March and the blog is back up to date. Nothing much to report except that I have arranged through Hanse that Sim can repair the windows under warranty and work should start tomorrow (Monday) morning. Once they are safe and sealed again, we hope to continue north to Antigua for ‘Classic Week’ via Dominica.
Kat flies back to the U.K. on March 18th so we need to get a move on! I have also decided to sail back to the U.K either from Antigua or via Bermuda. If I’m feeling brave I may try for the rhumb line to the U.K or if not, via the Azores.
That’s all for now folks…
After using the engine for about an hour the wind filled in and we resumed sailing, we could just make out Otahi on the distant horizon. Just after dark we drew level with them and then slowly pulled away throughout the night as Doris (being modern) points a lot higher than Otahi.
We arrived at Rodney Bay just as it was getting light, dropped anchor and after failing to make contact with Otahi, climbed into bed. After a few hours sleep we woke up around midday and decided to re-anchor closer to shore nearer Otahi who had arrived while we were sleeping.
Just after setting the anchor, I decided to dive on the anchor and found I had dropped it over an underwater cliff edge about 25ft high and while it was holding, would not be suitable for a longer term stay. While on deck I saw a familiar sight approaching. It was Aliisa (Lauri & Annina) who had arrived after sailing south from Martinique. We invited them over for ‘breakfast pancakes’ and were soon also joined by James & Freya. Once again Doris was a hive of activity with Kat doing the business with the Pancakes our staple breakfast for the last month or so.
Finally as everyone had vacated and just as it was getting dark we decided to re-anchor (something we should have done a lot sooner). After failing (3 times) to get the anchor to set on the rock and coral bottom, and with ever increasing winds, we finally had to settle on anchoring well offshore away from other boats just incase she pulled during the night.
With me not wanting to leave the boat, Kat was feeling trapped and had ‘Cabin Fever’, compounded by the fact that she was not confident enough to use the dinghy at night in the strong winds on her own. After a heated argument, James & Freya came over to visit and we had a Rum fueled ‘Therapy Session’ with James playing safe and staying very quiet!
The next morning we decided to go into the marina so Kat could see her friends and go ashore easily. After a botched mooring we were all tied up and back where I started – Rodney Bay marina. With the winds howling we decided to stay in the marina for three nights, however this led to another two nights due to being in no state to move the boat after a heavy night on Aliisa and another night of ‘Jump Up’ and also deciding to help Matti get Carma boxed for shipping back to Sweden.
A heavy night on Aliisa
Jump Up at Gros Islet.
During our stay in the marina we did at least manage to ‘Milton’ the water tanks which hopefully will not leave too much of a smell of bleach.
After getting back out to anchor I returned to the marina to help Matti get Carma in the container for shipment back to Sweden and then pick up some supplies and Gaz.
After getting back out to anchor I returned to the marina to help Matti get Carma in the container for shipment back to Sweden and then pick up some supplies and Gaz.
Getting Carma to the loading dock.
On my return to the anchorage Quartermoon (Sim & Amy) had arrived. During the conversation it occurred to me that neither the Gaz or the supplies were in the dinghy. In my haste I had left them on the marina dinghy pontoon! To my surprise they were still sitting there waiting for me – phew!
Kat found it somewhat ironic when she realized the first day in a month I didn’t fancy pancakes for breakfast was in fact Shrove Tuesday.
That evening Quatermoon joined us for a curry, followed by Aliisa, Otahi and Matti who also came over to Doris for drinks and to catch up. Once again Kat played the hostess mixing batches of punch in the giant Thermos jug.
Kat found it somewhat ironic when she realized the first day in a month I didn’t fancy pancakes for breakfast was in fact Shrove Tuesday.
That evening Quatermoon joined us for a curry, followed by Aliisa, Otahi and Matti who also came over to Doris for drinks and to catch up. Once again Kat played the hostess mixing batches of punch in the giant Thermos jug.
The whole gang together on Doris.
Things started to get a bit messy around 2am when everyone was suitably drunk and we had consumed at least 3 litres of Rum and some dodgy Coconut liqueur and wine. While talking to Sim, he offered to repair Doris’ windows that are still being held in place with Duct tape.
Upon getting into bed the boat started to spin and the quick solution came in the form of two fingers down my throat and a chat with the great white telephone before sinking into a deep sleep. Needless to say the next day we didn’t leave the boat and the radio remained very quiet all day. While it rained continuously all day, I felt great. Kat however, wanted someone to kill her (something I’ve been close to doing on certain occasions but thought I’d let her suffer on this particular day).
The next day (Thursday) we all got together to say farewell to Matti in the ‘Bread Basket’ Café. He had booked the first possible flight back home to Sweden and was leaving that night. The rest of us planned a beach BBQ for the evening. That afternoon Kat and I, joined James and Freya aboard Otahi for an afternoon sail around Rodney Bay. I have never sailed a steel boat and it was interesting to note the difference between Doris, a light weight modern yacht with a fractional rig and Otahi, a heavy traditional steel cutter.
We all arrived on the beach just after dark armed with BBQ’s, food, drink and guitars. Luckily the rain held off and many a bad song was sung, reminiscent of days gone by in Portugal.
BBQ on Reduit Beach, Rodney Bay
Upon getting into bed the boat started to spin and the quick solution came in the form of two fingers down my throat and a chat with the great white telephone before sinking into a deep sleep. Needless to say the next day we didn’t leave the boat and the radio remained very quiet all day. While it rained continuously all day, I felt great. Kat however, wanted someone to kill her (something I’ve been close to doing on certain occasions but thought I’d let her suffer on this particular day).
The next day (Thursday) we all got together to say farewell to Matti in the ‘Bread Basket’ Café. He had booked the first possible flight back home to Sweden and was leaving that night. The rest of us planned a beach BBQ for the evening. That afternoon Kat and I, joined James and Freya aboard Otahi for an afternoon sail around Rodney Bay. I have never sailed a steel boat and it was interesting to note the difference between Doris, a light weight modern yacht with a fractional rig and Otahi, a heavy traditional steel cutter.
We all arrived on the beach just after dark armed with BBQ’s, food, drink and guitars. Luckily the rain held off and many a bad song was sung, reminiscent of days gone by in Portugal.
BBQ on Reduit Beach, Rodney Bay
The following day, Otahi set off heading for Martinique and Aliisa left us for the final time to continue their trip around the world. Otahi – See you guys soon! Aliisa - Good luck and see you on the flip side!
It’s now Sunday 1st March and the blog is back up to date. Nothing much to report except that I have arranged through Hanse that Sim can repair the windows under warranty and work should start tomorrow (Monday) morning. Once they are safe and sealed again, we hope to continue north to Antigua for ‘Classic Week’ via Dominica.
Kat flies back to the U.K. on March 18th so we need to get a move on! I have also decided to sail back to the U.K either from Antigua or via Bermuda. If I’m feeling brave I may try for the rhumb line to the U.K or if not, via the Azores.
That’s all for now folks…
Monday, 9 February 2009
Bequia Grenadines (again)
The trip to Bequia took a lot longer than we anticipated. We were beating (slamming) the whole way due to the steep short waves and then got headed by a wind shift on our final approach having gone wide out to sea.
We arrived at Bequia after nightfall and were greeted by Afrika who put us straight on a huge mooring buoy, despite us already refusing another boat boy on the way into the bay.
The next morning we arranged an even better deal with Afrika (than previously), $100ec for 4 nights.
Aside from meeting Otahi (James & Freya) and Luna (Daniel) again, there isn’t much to report about our second stay in Bequia (8 nights).
We did decide to make a rain catcher out of some old spinnaker sail we blagged from the local sail maker with Freya giving me a sewing lesson. 
We arrived at Bequia after nightfall and were greeted by Afrika who put us straight on a huge mooring buoy, despite us already refusing another boat boy on the way into the bay.
The next morning we arranged an even better deal with Afrika (than previously), $100ec for 4 nights.
Aside from meeting Otahi (James & Freya) and Luna (Daniel) again, there isn’t much to report about our second stay in Bequia (8 nights).
We did decide to make a rain catcher out of some old spinnaker sail we blagged from the local sail maker with Freya giving me a sewing lesson.
Despite it looking functional we haven’t actually got it to work with any degree of success yet.
Over an evening of Rum punch we also said our final farewells to Daniel who plans to continue south along the Atlantic coast with the intention of rounding Cape Horn (albeit the wrong way against wind and tide!). We agreed to meet up on Easter Island in 14 months time, the things we promise when drunk eh…
Good Luck Luna and I wish you all the fair winds the Gods can muster - Don’t upset them!
I also came up with another recipe named (kind of) after Kat.
Boo’s Batty Fruit Bread.
2 Cups Flour (general purpose)
1tsp Salt
1tsp Cinnamon
1 tsp Yeast (instant)
150ml Water (room temp)
1 Cup Mixed Dried Fruit
2 tbsp Brown Sugar
1 tbsp Honey
More Cinnamon & Brown Sugar to sprinkle on top.
Mix dry ingredients, stir in water & honey, knead, leave in warm, draught free place for 1 hour, knead again and place in pan, leave 30 mins. Dust the top with (more) brown sugar and Cinnamon. Add approx 1 inch of water to pressure cooker. Place pan on trivet in pressure cooker so pan stays above the water. Bring to boil. Place on smallest burner at lowest setting for 25 minutes. Turn out and let cool & dry.
I also think diced fresh apple would work well to make an Apple and Cinnamon loaf…
As water was running low I decided to top up the main tank from our jerry cans and after checking the water in the first can, didn’t think twice about adding the other two. Big mistake! I had forgotten that our previous visit to Bequia we had 2 jerry cans filled by the local Dive shop.
After the final drop was added to the main tank, I happened to look into the can and saw that the last two cans had green growth inside. Aaarrghh…!!! I was pretty sure it was just algae growth and nothing too bad and that it would probably just die off in the main tank due to a lack of light. It did however, mean that we were both now paranoid about drinking the water from the main tank without boiling it, so we only used our fourth jerry can (27L) of fresh water for cold drinks. We will bleach the tanks as soon as possible.
We tried to check out of the Grenadines on Monday afternoon to leave early Tuesday morning, however, being 20 minutes after 4pm we were told that it was going to cost us $45ec due to overtime! Sod that… We would check out tomorrow morning instead…
Tuesday (17th Feb) morning saw James & Freya, Kat and I, once again in line to face the happy bunch that is Bequia immigration. All went according to plan with Otahi leaving a few hours before us and heading for Wallilibou in St. Vincent and us heading straight for St Lucia.
Over an evening of Rum punch we also said our final farewells to Daniel who plans to continue south along the Atlantic coast with the intention of rounding Cape Horn (albeit the wrong way against wind and tide!). We agreed to meet up on Easter Island in 14 months time, the things we promise when drunk eh…
Good Luck Luna and I wish you all the fair winds the Gods can muster - Don’t upset them!
I also came up with another recipe named (kind of) after Kat.
Boo’s Batty Fruit Bread.
2 Cups Flour (general purpose)
1tsp Salt
1tsp Cinnamon
1 tsp Yeast (instant)
150ml Water (room temp)
1 Cup Mixed Dried Fruit
2 tbsp Brown Sugar
1 tbsp Honey
More Cinnamon & Brown Sugar to sprinkle on top.
Mix dry ingredients, stir in water & honey, knead, leave in warm, draught free place for 1 hour, knead again and place in pan, leave 30 mins. Dust the top with (more) brown sugar and Cinnamon. Add approx 1 inch of water to pressure cooker. Place pan on trivet in pressure cooker so pan stays above the water. Bring to boil. Place on smallest burner at lowest setting for 25 minutes. Turn out and let cool & dry.
I also think diced fresh apple would work well to make an Apple and Cinnamon loaf…
As water was running low I decided to top up the main tank from our jerry cans and after checking the water in the first can, didn’t think twice about adding the other two. Big mistake! I had forgotten that our previous visit to Bequia we had 2 jerry cans filled by the local Dive shop.
After the final drop was added to the main tank, I happened to look into the can and saw that the last two cans had green growth inside. Aaarrghh…!!! I was pretty sure it was just algae growth and nothing too bad and that it would probably just die off in the main tank due to a lack of light. It did however, mean that we were both now paranoid about drinking the water from the main tank without boiling it, so we only used our fourth jerry can (27L) of fresh water for cold drinks. We will bleach the tanks as soon as possible.
We tried to check out of the Grenadines on Monday afternoon to leave early Tuesday morning, however, being 20 minutes after 4pm we were told that it was going to cost us $45ec due to overtime! Sod that… We would check out tomorrow morning instead…
Tuesday (17th Feb) morning saw James & Freya, Kat and I, once again in line to face the happy bunch that is Bequia immigration. All went according to plan with Otahi leaving a few hours before us and heading for Wallilibou in St. Vincent and us heading straight for St Lucia.
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